In trying to cure a problem, it seems I created a new one.
I went to check and adjust the float on my 2150 and the fuel level was visually quite high, looked in the book and it said that the wet measurement is .781 so I made a cardboard ruler cut at 3/4 of an inch and adjusted the float so the top of the fuel level to the housing of the carb is 3/4 of an inch. It seemed quite low if you ask me, but that is what the book said. (I dbl checked 2 manuals)
The car idles fine, rev's fine but once I get on the highway I can't go over 45mph. It's asthough it is starving for gas. It is fine on the backroads under 40. I am confused. The original measurement appears to have been about .25" or so.

Thanks,
Kurt

 

To get accurate wet level measurement, you have to take the measurement with the with the engine running at idle, at normal operating temperature. The point at which you take the measurement on the surface of the fuel has to be far enough away from the wall of the bowl and the edge of the float that it's not affected by the meniscus.

I'd suggest using a "dry" measurement method, with the engine shut off. Just push down on the needle valve gently to seat it, and measure the distance from the top of the float to the top edge of the fuel bowl. Typical settings are close to 1/2". Start there, and adjust up or down as necessary.

 

That's basically what I did, I changed the float, needle and seat this evening with an extra carb I rape for parts. Seems the one I had seats at different spots causing the fuel level to be erratic.
So far so good, but I did set the fuel level higher than the .781 specified. (probubly about .5)

I am ultimately trying to fix a problem where the vehicle doesn't idle when the outside temp is between 35 and 55 degrees. If it is warmer out or colder than those temps the vehicle runs excellent. When between those temps the car always starts, but after a couple of miles you press in the clutch and it idles at about 200rmp then wants to stall. This will continue well into the engine being up to temp and will stop instantaneous at any given time miles down the road. The only thing weird about the whole thing is that if I pull over when the vehicle is running like that, and put my hand over the carb airhorn after 3 seconds the problem goes away and it idles great.
It acts like a bad EGR valve but is not, nor does it appear to be an external vacuum leak. (I blocked off the EGR for an experiment and plugged all vacuum lines except running the dist-vacuum advance by itself) The choke cap has been replaced and the choke adjusted and working correctly.
If anyone has any ideas??? Much appreciated as I am at the end of my ropes.

 

It sounds like your hot air intake on the factory air cleaner is not working and the air bleeds in the carb are icing up. This is a common problem of Ford trucks.
Make sure that the air cleaner is hooked up and drawing warm air from the exhaust manifold when it is cold to heat the intake air and keep the carb from icing.
Jimmy

 

I have checked it in that when it was warm the gates were open (drawing outside air) I sprayed dome canned air upside down on the sensor inside the air cleaner and they shut, but now I am thinking the canned air gets much colder and may have showed it good, even though it is bad. Makes sense as the problem only occurs when the air is moist....I will try putting the valve right to vacuum on a day I know the problem will exist.

Thanks!

Kurt

 

Let us know what you find out.
Jimmy

 

I let out the idle mixture screws a 1/4 turn each and my problem, at least for now has ceased....but the other day I noticed, what appears to be fuel starvation at WOT under moderate load and high speed, so I am back to tweaking the float?
My understanding that even if the float was in the ballpark, under WOT and load that the fuel in would have to be at least equal to what is being consumed and if the float was in a position of letting in the fuel then there should be no fuel starvation.
Previously I adjusted the fuel level wet to about .3" which was what it was when I first removed the air horn. The book states that the wet measurement should be .810 but that just seems too low as it puts the fuel level in the bowl almost 1/2 way down, could that really be right?
I am going to ponder replacing the needle and seat.....

Suggestions? BTW E2ZE-BBA carb 2150

 

Sounds like you have an 82 Mustang carb.
As far as the hot air flap, there should be a delay valve that keeps it from opening too soon. It will also keep it from opening when you accelerate and the vacuum signal drops. It will still open when warm enough.
I'm not sure about the float level thing. Is the fuel filter good and clean? Fuel pump up to snuff?
Jimmy