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Alright I am pretty sure my issues are carb related. Got the truck out of a field after sitting for awhile. Changed the fuel filter, sprayed starting fluid down carb, and she started right up! With this said gas leaked out of the accelerator pump and she wouldn't idle so I rebuilt the carb. This helped alot but I'm still having some issues.
1. Still wont idle below 850-900 rpm (my guess)
2. Still requires starting fluid to start sometimes (even when warm) this is could in part be due to the fact of my manual choke not working too well unless I get under the hood and motivate it
3. Runs great when not idleing...down the road doesnt really skip a beat, only when rpms get down below 1000
4. Fuel no longer leaks
5. Shoots fire out of top when initially starting sometimes (flooding? Bowl adjustment?)
I've read to buy a vaccum gauge...might do this if i can't get it tuned in w/o one. This whole carb deal has a certain learning curve to it for me (I'm 19 and my truck is a 71). With that said I've been working on cars for as long as I've been driving. When I get home tomorrow I'll try to adjust the idle mixture screws 1 1/2 turns out and go from there. Thanks for any input yall have hope to get this thing inspected tommorow!
Welcome to FTE and the Bumpside Kingdom!
Might be a vacuum leak. Or leaks. You said sitting in a field for a while. I would replace everything rubber related under the hood as your 19 year old wallet lets you. Old rubber hose is like your 98 year old Great Grandma.
All kidding aside,pull the spark plugs (a complete tune up with new parts would be a good idea here) and "read" them to see if the engine it running too lean or too rich to cause your problem. Then report back young man.
A lot of times, people think the carburetor is the problem, when it really isn't. The old saying goes "90 per cent of carburetor problems are ignition related." And that's probably about right.
I had a fire-hose Holley 500 CFM on my truck and it was a little bit too much carb and took me a while to jet down about 5 sizes. Plugs at first looked like somebody spray painted them black.
Recently bought a remanufactured 2100 similar to what the truck shipped with OEM and it runs better than ever and just as much power. There are a LOT of good videos and websites on the 2100 carb, and free-to-download factory manuals. Very popular with off-road folks and such. It is a good efficient design with the annular discharge boosters and considered one of the best carburetors ever designed.
One problem area with these, an engine backfiring through the carb can blow out the power valve. This is usually caused by improper timing (ignition!) or possibly crossed plug wires etc.
Also found that setting the _float height_ during rebuild is only half of it. The _fuel height_ in the bowl itself is actually what counts and needs to be checked. On my application the bench float height setting ended up being way too high.
The spec calls for a warmed up engine, idle for two minutes. Shut engine off. Remove air horn and gasket. Measure 29/64ths from the machined top of the carburetor down to the fuel level. A US .25c Quarter happens to be damn close to 29/64ths, so it's handy to use as a gauge for this purpose. Try not to burn down the neighborhood, or set yourself on fire. Keep an extinguisher in your truck at all times. These are simple carbs and there is a lot of latitude but have to get things in the ballpark.
Welcome to FTE and the Bumpside Kingdom!
Might be a vacuum leak. Or leaks. You said sitting in a field for a while. I would replace everything rubber related under the hood as your 19 year old wallet lets you. Old rubber hose is like your 98 year old Great Grandma.
All kidding aside,pull the spark plugs (a complete tune up with new parts would be a good idea here) and "read" them to see if the engine it running too lean or too rich to cause your problem. Then report back young man.
Forgot to mention that I did in fact replace all the spark plugs! None had oil on the tips, although one was loose (fouling maybe?). The tips were kind of a dark grey color. I have little money to spend, but need to spend it effectively for now. kinda spent most of it buying the truck . When I get more this summer I'm gunna yank the motor out, seal it up (has terrible exhaust leak which is the main reason I'm pulling the motor), and install new rubber and other general maintenance items to get this rig reliable. I also installed new points, condensor, and cap/rotor. Idling improved a bit but not much. I still need to figure out how to gap the point, I pretty much just tightened it down snug to the rotor in the middle...
A lot of times, people think the carb is the problem, when it really isn't. The old saying went "90 per cent of carburetor problems are ignition related." And that's probably about right.
I had a fire-hose Holley 500 CFM on my truck and it was a little bit too big and took me a while to jet down about 5 sizes. Plugs at first looked like somebody spray painted them black.
Recently bought a remanufactured 2100 exactly like what the truck shipped with and it runs better than ever and just as much power. There are a lot of good videos and websites on the 2100 carb, and free download manuals. It is a very popular with off-road folks and such. It is a good efficient design with the annular discharge boosters and considered one of the best carburetors ever designed.
One problem area with these, an engine backfiring through the carb can blow out the power valve. This is usually caused by improper timing (ignition!) or possibly crossed plug wires etc.
Also found that setting the _float height_ during rebuild is only half of it. The _fuel height_ in the bowl itself is what counts and needs to be checked. On my application the bench float height setting ended up being way too high.
The spec calls for a warmed up engine, then let it idle for two minutes. Shut engine off. Remove air horn and gasket.
Measure 29/64ths from the machined top of the carburetor down to the fuel level. A US .25c Quarter happens to be damn close to 29/64ths, so it 's handy to use as a gauge for this purpose. Try not to burn down the neighborhood, or set yourself on fire. Keep an extinguisher in your truck and/or handy at all times. These are very simple carbs and there is a lot of latitude but have to get things in the ballpark.
I think I'm gunna spend my money on a timing light and vacuum gauge to get this sucker tuned. If the timing is causing my backfiring I definitely want to adjust that! I'll also make sure to check for misplaced spark plug wires. If my fuel level is too high (or low) do I bend the float accordingly? And is there a proper way to do this? Thanks for all the great info! I'm sure I'll get this truck running good soon enough
Forgot to mention that I did in fact replace all the spark plugs! None had oil on the tips, although one was loose (fouling maybe?). The tips were kind of a dark grey color. I have little money to spend, but need to spend it effectively for now. kinda spent most of it buying the truck . When I get more this summer I'm gunna yank the motor out, seal it up (has terrible exhaust leak which is the main reason I'm pulling the motor), and install new rubber and other general maintenance items to get this rig reliable. I also installed new points, condensor, and cap/rotor. Idling improved a bit but not much. I still need to figure out how to gap the point, I pretty much just tightened it down snug to the rotor in the middle...
Well, 1st off you better get the gap on the points correct. A dwell meter is the best way (30 degrees dwell for a Ford V8. GM always listed 28-32 so if you get it 29-31 that's OK). Bump the engine around until the rubbing block on the points is at the top of one of the Dizzy's lobes. So the points are the most open. Set to .17 with a feeler gauge or a match book cover. Then tighten.
Aw that's a 70 ford truck, wrong grille & steering wheel to be a 71.
I can't add anything to the list or then to do a compression check so you'll know how bad the exh valves seats are leaking. Unleaded gas is not user friendly with these old trucks.
These old trucks get parked because they are in need of Harden exh. seat. For the normal fix of a barn find or a field find is a complete brake job hard & rubber lines will need replacing.. Possibly you'll need wheel bearing & drums.
These old classics are like a can of worms as you'll just keep finding something that needs replacing.
Most young guys can't afford to being these old trucks back to life after they've been sitting for a number of yrs..
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You said sitting in a field for a while. I would replace everything rubber related under the hood as your 19 year old wallet lets you. Old rubber hose is like your 98 year old Great Grandma. 
