When and how do you determine it is time to replace your IP? My truck has the original on it (148K). Do you just wait till it dies? As far as performance, I guess it is up to par. It runs and starts well but does not do well towing mpg. (10mpg)
Any help will be appreciated
Tom

 

Hello tom i just changed out my ip it had about 125000 miles on it! Mine wouldnt keep primed but you could tell it wasnt burning all the fuel and it was running rich! Just remember you more than likely wanna change injectors at the same time . Your fuel mileage should go up and definately do better than 10 .anyway hope this helps good luck!

 

After about 100,000 they start to get worn out. If its running fine and you dont really care about MPG's then i guess you dont have to, but it would improve MPG's if you did, and you may feel the diffference at the pedal just a bit too Same goes for the injectors as well. Its reccomended that you change both at the same time for the best results.

 

Thanks for the replies. I changed out the injectors about 10K ago. They were shot. I would like to do better than 10mpg. Guess I should start shopping for a rebuilt IP. I don't want to wait till it "takes a dive." Anything in particular I need to pay attention to when getting one? I guess I'll have to "bite the bullet" and invest in a Rotunda timing meter.
Tom

 

As far as MPG's go, a new fuel system will help, but its all in how you drive it. I drive mine hard, so i get around 10 mpg. When my dad barrowed it for a while, he said he was getting 13ish. I didnt believe him till i drove with him one day and remembered how he drives. There are a few places to get IP from. Uhaul has great deals on theirs, but ive heard good and bad things about them. Alot of places sell rebuilt ones as well as ones that flow over stock.

 

You should watch ebay for the new Kent Moore meters. most of the time you can get a brand new one for a smoking deal, like 50% off retail. sometimes even more. the kent moore's are nice b/c you can still get all the parts for them allthough they are pricey so don't loose or break them.

alot of guys go with these things.......
Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
all you need to go with this is a good timing light with the timing advance feature.

 

10 MPG while towing could be fantastic or horrible though.what are you towing,how much does it weigh,for what kind of distances at a time,over what kind of terrain,and at what speeds?

did the rear axle get its flush back 48k miles ago?
actually,its probably much sooner than every 100k for towing duty.who has a manual? id like to know this.

when was the engine last timed? does it have a good rattle to it,or does it sound more like a gas job? are you seeing a lot of black smoke out the pipe?

 

How does this compare to the Rotunda 78-100 which I think is a little more reasonably priced.

 

Towing a 28 ft 5th wheel. Gross dry wt-6450. Gvwr-8160. I averaged 10mpg uphill,downhill,flat land over an 8,000 mile trip. I think it automatically switches to 10 mpg as soon as I drop the hitch onto the bed. I run 65 mph tops.
Rear axel was flushed.
Never been timed as long as I owned it (purchased at 120k). I actually have 184k on it. (Did I say 148k) Possibly dislexia?
No smoke out the tailpipe. Seems to have morepower when high idle and advance is on

 

Being the tightwad that I am, I would adjust the timing before I R&R'd it. As the pump wears, it squirts later and later. This essentially retards the timing. If it had a problem starting, I would consider an IP. Otherwise just time it.

 

yeah,at least advance the timing.
you shouldn't notice any more power when the cold advance is on.
there's a point where more advance does nothing but sound really bad,but nothing is gained (expect for a smoother running cold engine at idle of course,the reason for cold advance.) your way down on the retarded end of things for sure if the power is increased on cold start up.

if you really want it to feel like a different truck;
install new injectors.
install rebuilt ip.
have timing set to 8.5 BDTC (or by someone who knows what their doing with a lumy meter based on fuel and elevation.)

new ip and injectors is roughly around every 100k miles.
timing should be checked roughly every 20-30k.
fuel costs way too much not to keep them tuned today.it's far cheaper to buy the medium ware parts than the extra fuel.
not to mention,you'll recover so much lost power you never knew the old girl ever had.