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Injector replacement

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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Injector replacement

I have an injector to replace planning on doing it in the morning I've been over in the tech folder reading on injector change. one thing it don't say anything about is sucking fuel and oil out of injector port. Is this a step that I need to do with the 6.0? I know on my 7.3 you had to do this step or you would hydrolock the motor and it wouldn't start. Also about how long should this take me with simple hand tools by myself?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Just suck the fuel out of rthe upper fuel bowel and thats good enough

The fuel rail will drain into the first inject you pull but its not that much especialy if you suck the upper fuel bowel out and what does go into the cylinder will drain to the crankcase by the time you go to fire it back up

just make shure you get an injector oring kit for each on you pull out

If it was me Id rering all 4 in that bank its cheap

I reringed all 8 cuz they wore out and would leak when cold

and just make shure the injector cup is clean upon reassembly and BLOW ALL injector hold down bolt holes out

IIRC I went to 26ft/lbs on injjector hold downs it was revised tourque spec from 24ft/lbs

tourque on these is VERY Important
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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A calibrated torque wrench is pretty important IMO.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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If the fuel is going to drain in to the crank case do I need to Chang the oil again? My oil has les than 50 miles on it I just done a oil change yesterday I do have a good torque wrench any more advise will be greatly appreciated
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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If you suck the upper fuel bowel out it wont be that much
maybe 2 cups fuel MAX

you could drain it at the banjo bolts at the Heads to get most all of it but you should have a new gasket to go on it after its taken apart

Id run the oil for awhile maybe just change it alittle sooner

If you drain at the banjo bolt on the fuel rail at the head there wont be much fuel at all left to go down into the crank case I wouldnt worry about it if you did that
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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How long should it take me? Reason I ask the parts store don't open till 9 and close at 4 and it's an hour away and I've got to have old one out to take with me for core or pay the core charge that is out of sight HIGH.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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is this Truck an 05+
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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and these are a good read

Page 69: Unique Service Procedures

Page 70: Unique Service Procedures

Page 71: Unique Service Procedures

Page 72: Unique Service Procedures
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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No it's an 03 doest look like it would take too long getting all the stuff out of the way to get to the valve cover not sure how long it will take after that
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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I think the longest/most annoying part is getting the valve covers off, after that its smooth sailing...just be extremely careful and dont drop anything....

driverside is easier to do.

*make sure you get all of the oil or anything else that might have seeped into the hold down bolt hole to torque it properly*

its going to take some cranking to get it started and it will run rough and smoke until all the air is out....after that you should be good to go..

goodluck
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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03 just undo oil rail bolts then pull up till oil rail out of injectors and twist out of the way its on that HPO Stainless steal flex no need to undo it

its not to bad job

I reringed all 8 and spread it over 2 days taking my time

if I start racing threw it is when I break stuff or forget things

you need a long torx bit for the injector hold down
 
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