Coolant Cap Question
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I'm getting one to try since I need one anyway and I'll have it in the morning. I'll see if I have any temperature issues. I'm with you on the cavitation issues. Higher pressure should equal smaller/less gassing BUT could also equal blown weak hoses.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Might be worth a try. I'm heading out on a trip this week myself, so I'll take Jake's Dash Daq and just datalog the whole thing. At least it'll give a yea or nay one way or the other.
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
I just e-mailed my local dealer to see if they carry them and what price they are willing to part with one.
Not expecting much in price though.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I'm getting one for $10.29 from Bumper to Bumper since they're a major motorcraft distributor. That's not much different than the dealership but a LOT closer
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
Found this, IMO, excellent explanation of the 2 pressures involved in a cooling system. I did not write this but, again IMO, it invokes the KISS theory.
OLDBOGIE @ Hotrodders Bulletin Board is the author.
There are two pressures in the cooling system, the most commonly thought of one is that established by the pressure cap. This manages the vapor pressure of the coolant which changes its boiling point. More pressure nets a higher temperature before boiling occurs. This is why it's very dangerous to loosen the cap when the temperature of the engine is hot because the loss of pressure may prove to be sufficient to cause the entire contents of the cooling system to flash to steam. In that case it explodes in your face.
The other pressure(s) are mechanically induced by the suction and pumping actions of the pump and the resistance to flow created by the engine's cooling passages, the radiator and heater cores. Pressure on the outlet side of the pump is higher as it's pushing into these resistances. On the inlet side its trying suck what's getting thru the radiator into the pump lowering the pressure. These forces become greater with higher RPM. One purpose of the higher pressure cap is to prevent coolant from flashing to steam on the suction side of the pump. If you lower system pressure, you should also lower operating temperature. !6 PSI is good for 180 to 200 degree thermostats, 12-13 is better with a 160 thermostat.
System flow is controlled by the thermostat which varies its open area depending upon the temperature of fluid flowing past it. Its function also tends to moderate mechanical pressure differences between the inlet and outlet sides of the pump.
For the most part, that factory supplied pump has more than enough capacity to furnish the engine with sufficient coolant flow. Cooling problems are most often related to insufficient radiator capacity thru the core tubes or inadequate air movement thru its fins.
High output water pumps are for the most part totally unnecessary, all they do is beat the coolant to froth which doesn't help cooling at all, as they cannot push more coolant through the system than the thermostat will permit to maintain a given (set) temperature. If the thermostat is fully open and the engine can't be cooled at speed, the problem lies elsewhere than with the pump. Most competition pumps actually are designed to pump less coolant because at high speeds they just overwhelm the system. So they usually go completely opposite to what you're induced to buy which is that real race pumps have smaller or fewer fins on the impeller or are turned slower with pulley size selection and or some combination of all the above.
If your heater core blew it was probably defective from the manufacturer. Leaks at hoses usually indicate insufficient clamping force. Leaks at the return gasket to manifold either indicate the bolts are not tight enough or are too tight and have bowed the mounting flange, for this a gasket with a hard plastic washer slightly thinner than the gasket can help keep from bending the flange thru overtightning the bolts.
Water wetter tends to increase leaks at hoses as it increases the lubricity of coolant making the use of more clamping force necessary to keep hoses on their bibs.
The use of piston pins floating in the rod has nothing to do with side slap of the piston. Who tells these stories to people? The pin floating in the rod is there to help insure that in the heat of competition, an overheated piston doesn't grab the pin thus stopping its motion as could happen with a press fit pin. For a street engine there's noting wrong with using a full floating pin, but unless you're running a blower or nitrous, it's not necessary.
Bogie<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- begin adsense --><!-- end adsense --><!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>
I plan to get the 20 psi cap today and try it since I'm headed to MI in two weeks.
Thanks to "npccpartsman" for the part # info.
DSMMH
OLDBOGIE @ Hotrodders Bulletin Board is the author.
There are two pressures in the cooling system, the most commonly thought of one is that established by the pressure cap. This manages the vapor pressure of the coolant which changes its boiling point. More pressure nets a higher temperature before boiling occurs. This is why it's very dangerous to loosen the cap when the temperature of the engine is hot because the loss of pressure may prove to be sufficient to cause the entire contents of the cooling system to flash to steam. In that case it explodes in your face.
The other pressure(s) are mechanically induced by the suction and pumping actions of the pump and the resistance to flow created by the engine's cooling passages, the radiator and heater cores. Pressure on the outlet side of the pump is higher as it's pushing into these resistances. On the inlet side its trying suck what's getting thru the radiator into the pump lowering the pressure. These forces become greater with higher RPM. One purpose of the higher pressure cap is to prevent coolant from flashing to steam on the suction side of the pump. If you lower system pressure, you should also lower operating temperature. !6 PSI is good for 180 to 200 degree thermostats, 12-13 is better with a 160 thermostat.
System flow is controlled by the thermostat which varies its open area depending upon the temperature of fluid flowing past it. Its function also tends to moderate mechanical pressure differences between the inlet and outlet sides of the pump.
For the most part, that factory supplied pump has more than enough capacity to furnish the engine with sufficient coolant flow. Cooling problems are most often related to insufficient radiator capacity thru the core tubes or inadequate air movement thru its fins.
High output water pumps are for the most part totally unnecessary, all they do is beat the coolant to froth which doesn't help cooling at all, as they cannot push more coolant through the system than the thermostat will permit to maintain a given (set) temperature. If the thermostat is fully open and the engine can't be cooled at speed, the problem lies elsewhere than with the pump. Most competition pumps actually are designed to pump less coolant because at high speeds they just overwhelm the system. So they usually go completely opposite to what you're induced to buy which is that real race pumps have smaller or fewer fins on the impeller or are turned slower with pulley size selection and or some combination of all the above.
If your heater core blew it was probably defective from the manufacturer. Leaks at hoses usually indicate insufficient clamping force. Leaks at the return gasket to manifold either indicate the bolts are not tight enough or are too tight and have bowed the mounting flange, for this a gasket with a hard plastic washer slightly thinner than the gasket can help keep from bending the flange thru overtightning the bolts.
Water wetter tends to increase leaks at hoses as it increases the lubricity of coolant making the use of more clamping force necessary to keep hoses on their bibs.
The use of piston pins floating in the rod has nothing to do with side slap of the piston. Who tells these stories to people? The pin floating in the rod is there to help insure that in the heat of competition, an overheated piston doesn't grab the pin thus stopping its motion as could happen with a press fit pin. For a street engine there's noting wrong with using a full floating pin, but unless you're running a blower or nitrous, it's not necessary.
Bogie<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- begin adsense --><!-- end adsense --><!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>
I plan to get the 20 psi cap today and try it since I'm headed to MI in two weeks.
Thanks to "npccpartsman" for the part # info.
DSMMH
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I won't, at least not until I have a reason to pressure test my system. I do know that part # is correct because mine is installed now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,648
Likes: 1
From: CT
Does it it fit the 6.0 ?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
It fits perfectly. Interesting it is for a Focus--LOL.
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