Okay, so I realize I'm re-hashing a topic that's been discussed, but there is a plethora of information out there and it can be confusing... please bear with me.

I want a pre-1996 F-150 (or F-250 as long as it's not a 7.5L/460 gas guzzler), 4x4, extended cab. Preferably $2000 as a price limit.

Every time I find one, it has cab corner and/or rear fender rust. I live in Pennsylvania where the roads tend to be covered in salt straight through November-February. I don't have welding equipment and I'd prefer to avoid welding if possible since the nearest buddy that can do it for me is 2 hours away. On the other hand, between "doing it right" and "doing it twice," I'll choose doing it right.

Can I get satisfactory results from either
A) Fiberglass resin?
B) 3M panel adhesive and patch panels?

The specific truck I have in mind is here: 1994 f-150 ext cab4x4

The guy agreed to $1800. The truck runs and drives great, but the rear fenders are completely rusted through to about 1" above the chrome fender edge, which probably means there is another inch or so of hidden rust under the paint. The driver side cab corner is rusted fairly deep also, and it's rusted inside the lower rear corner of the door jamb, too.

My understanding is that welds tend to rust very quickly anyway, especially in winter climates here in the Northeast. I also understand that 3M adhesive can swell and cause problems, and that pre-fabricated patch panels can be low quality metal. Finally, I'm concerned that fiberglass will absorb water and cause MORE rust, or it just won't hold up very well.

That's what I've gathered from other threads... can you guys help me sort it all out?

 

sorry, I meant to post this in "paint and bodywork." maybe a mod could move the thread?

 

All I really know is this method from my father:

1. cut metal about 2 inches around rust

2. Grind your a$$ off until you see bare metal and zero rust and grind any paint where welding new piece

3. weld patch panel or metal to overlap that 2inches or so

4. it is a very good idea to undercoat the metal before welding it on

5. FIBERGLASS is the key here ... it is resistant and waterproof to nearly anything, so cover up the welds with fiberglass

6. bondo, primer and paint etc...

oh and check out the bodywork done on my truck for futher help:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/385180...l-trims/page-2

well thats just my 0.02. I wouldnt cut corners with bodywork honestly. I see some idiots cover up rust spots with just bondo but I laugh it off knowing that the paint will probably bubble and start rusting within a year or so..hope this helps.

 

Its simple...Either buy the patch panels, burn them in, and undercoat GENEROUSLY....Or leave it the hell alone...

Again...As Nick has said.....You half *** the body work, you'll spend double and triple the initial costs......

besides...The patch panels you say the truck needs are all about $50 a piece...approx......

And its a simple thing to cut, grind, an burn them in.....

Then body filler, primer, and paint.....SImple as that...

Otherwise, yer askin for a recurring headache...

My .02.....

 

You can use a pop rivet tool instead of welding, in many ways superior vs. welding thin stock...alum, or SS rivets work well, use an alum, or SS washer on the back side of the rivets...as a side note, back in the day they used molten lead for body repair. That's what I used, when I restored my 56 Harley.

 

Also on the assembly line before paint. I'm a fan of weld on panels ... log my vote

 

I guess if you seal the area with POR-15 or epoxy primer they won't rust?

Do they make pop rivet tools that don't require an air compressor?

 

Yes you can buy a hand gun for 15-40 depending on quality and name.

 

Thoughts on this product bundle? --> No Weld Panel Repair Kit

Looks like I'd still need a caulking gun and pop rivet tool to go with that. Wondering if the tools included in that package are of good quality or not...

 

Never mind the rusty fenders.Get under neath with a flash lite and look at the frame from the cab back.The spring hangers may look ok but a few taps with a chipping hammer may prove otherwise. The frame can look ok but the point end of a chipping hammer will go right thru.There are few pre 96 Ford trucks on the road here.There are 2 9/16 bolts holding the bumper brackets to the chassis.I have looked at trucks with very little chassis left in that area.

 

The 3M panel adhesive will work fine for you - it is preferred by many professionals because welding the panels warps them. The 3M stuff is very strong, it's a type of epoxy. The only problem with the 3M adhesive is you need a special gun to apply it that mixes the 2 parts as it applies and it's kinda spendy.

As an alternative, you should just make a road trip to Central Texas and buy your truck here. Use Craigslist to find one - they are plentiful and rust-free.

 

Just putting my 2 cents in but in an f250 or f350 the 351 isn't much better on gas then the 460.

 

Yeah true story... Might as well have the extra power I guess!

My town water authority is auctioning one off online with the 460. '97 super duty f250 with 114k miles. They provided service logs back to 1997 to me... Very well cared for. It's at $1350 now, ends in 9 days. Crossing my fingers it stays under $2000! Probably wont.