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in*lbs, in*lbs guys. Marty, do yourself a huge favor and spend the extra$$ and buy the 100% rubber gasket, don't settle for the cork/ rubber composite. The cork will eventually wick out oil. Use a hand held nut driver and only tighten enough to have it snug. I assume you got your rig up and running, welcome back. The change out isn't tough. Take the air cleaner off, disonnect the throttle linkage at the carb - I think there's a bracket to remove too, maybe the fuel line also. A lot depends on the web of hoses and wires that snake over the cover. The only trouble spot can be next to the t-stat. With the hose on, the clearance is tight, but doable. If you swap covers, keep the old one. It should have all the info you need on the stickerS to set the timing, idle, and vacuum circuit calibration number.
Last edited by tetraruby; Apr 4, 2003 at 11:15 AM.
My Haynes manual says 4 to 7 foot pounds and the chilton calls for 48-84 INCH pounds so take your pick , either way you dont have to tighten them down all that tight
Jon
ok , thanx.. yea i got it running a little better. not much i still want to redo the timing and replace some vacuum lines..so while im changing the gasket im going to change my t-stat to..that gasket is all soaked with oil so i figure its a cheap part and im sure ill have to change it sooner or later...so ill do it now....thanx for replies..
My Haynes manual says 4 to 7 foot pounds and the chilton calls for 48-84 INCH pounds so take your pick
I wasn't trying to be a jerk, but try setting your ft*lb torque wrench to 4-7 lbs - not that accurate even if you can. inch*lbs are the more measureable way to go.
I wasnt thinking or saying you were a jerk
The point is that 16 foot pounds is way too much
My torque wrench ( SK 1/2'' drive ) only goes to 10 foot pounds I think
The inch pound wrench is the way to go I agree
Jon
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