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Not an authority, the 'alt', or affectionately referred to as the 'idiot' light and the 'amp' gauge are completely different circuits. I don't believe the amp gauge circuit should not be part of the CVR instrument panel circuit.
I could not fiqure out wiring dia. for the 'amp' gauge so I went w/out it for several months. Few yrs. ago decided to post simular thread when member emailed the diagram I am posting below and within an hour had the amp gauge installed. Obviously the circuit can be wired at least a couple of different ways; the description posted by KO1960 is different than the diag. I also installed a 50 amp fuse in series with the circuit going to the alt gauge, I did not want that many amps going to the instrument panel without some type of breaker. Members have posted pic's of simular connection using a 'junction' block. The other option would be a volt meter, only issue would be locating gauge that match the others. Make sure to do research, like I mentioned not an authority and u don't want to make toast of the wiring.
I have the schematics that show a 70 Amp circuit breaker but I don't see any trace of a breaker and the junction block remains are fried on the firewall. PO simply replaced the junction block with a bolt and electrical tape. I'm going to replace the breaker ASAP.
I had a problem with mine at one point, the junction block on the pass fender broke and the wire was shorting to the frame there. it ended with my amp meter smoking and melting. I would definitely check that block just to make sure, even if it isn't the problem, at least for future safety.
I had a problem with mine at one point, the junction block on the pass fender broke and the wire was shorting to the frame there. it ended with my amp meter smoking and melting. I would definitely check that block just to make sure, even if it isn't the problem, at least for future safety.
Yep- Mine is in good shape but the one on the firewall burned before I owned the truck.
Problem solved!!!! After tracing continuity in all the wires. We shorted the solenoid and it would not stay running. While doing this test I touched the bezel of the ammeter and found it was warm. We pulled another meter from a parts truck and installed it. The truck lives! The original meter had shorted internally. The ammeter alone can cripple the entire electrical system.