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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Amp meter pegged!

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #1  
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From: Bozeman,MT
Unhappy Amp meter pegged!

I can't figure it. I planned a quick swap out of a repainted round instrument cluster in my 66 F250. I disconnected the battery. I diagramed the all the wiring and pulled out the instrument panel, which includes the optional Amp and Oil Pressure guages. I replaced the spedo unit and rewired. Atached the battery and the Amp Guage is pegged to the max. Motor will not turn over or even click.
I had a mechanic friennd check my wiring yesterday and he can't figure it. I just swapped out the voltage reulator incase that was fried. Still nothing. this morning when I hook up the battery the Amp Guage shows zero until I turn the ignition switch then it rises to the max.
Any ideas where I've gone wrong?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:40 PM
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I'm thinking direct short. Maybe something is azz backwards.




John
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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I will preface my remarks by saying that I am looking at a '65 wiring diagram. My ammeter is wired from the starter relay via a junction block, with the other side of the ammeter wired to the ign. switch, then to the constant voltage unit and the rest of the gauges. I'm sorry if this sounds confusing, but I agree with John. If your ammeter is pegged the current running thru it is most likely going to ground-which means a short. You might start by checking all connections and disconnect the gauges one by one, until the truck turns over. Good luck.

Kurt
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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Did you properly polarize the new voltage regulator?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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I Installed a voltmeter instead of and ampmeter'' and per instructions it did not connect
at all to the dash .constant voltage regulator ..not sure but I don't think your ampmeter should either?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Not an authority, the 'alt', or affectionately referred to as the 'idiot' light and the 'amp' gauge are completely different circuits. I don't believe the amp gauge circuit should not be part of the CVR instrument panel circuit.

I could not fiqure out wiring dia. for the 'amp' gauge so I went w/out it for several months. Few yrs. ago decided to post simular thread when member emailed the diagram I am posting below and within an hour had the amp gauge installed. Obviously the circuit can be wired at least a couple of different ways; the description posted by KO1960 is different than the diag. I also installed a 50 amp fuse in series with the circuit going to the alt gauge, I did not want that many amps going to the instrument panel without some type of breaker. Members have posted pic's of simular connection using a 'junction' block. The other option would be a volt meter, only issue would be locating gauge that match the others. Make sure to do research, like I mentioned not an authority and u don't want to make toast of the wiring.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...os/Scan1-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...reDiagP8-1.jpg
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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Dave, my diagram shows the same as yours with a 70 amp circuit breaker in front of the ammeter. There should be a "constant voltage unit" or reg. in front of the rest of the gauges. Those gauges, oil pressure, fuel, and water temp., are wired in series from the reg. That would be the place to start since Caspery "rewired" the panel.

Kurt
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by KO1960
Dave, my diagram shows the same as yours with a 70 amp circuit breaker in front of the ammeter. There should be a "constant voltage unit" or reg. in front of the rest of the gauges. Those gauges, oil pressure, fuel, and water temp., are wired in series from the reg. That would be the place to start since Caspery "rewired" the panel. Posting pic's of couple variations, along with the instrument panel gauge circuit.

Kurt
Kurt, I am not sure whether or not the alternator, or idiot light, is wired thru the CVR since the units purpose as it regulate the voltage to the gauges from between 0-and 10 volts; whereas, I believe the idiot light comes on when the volt regular is not putting out, I could be wrong, perhaps more knowledgeage member can provide more info. However, I am certain the alternator gauge is not wired thru the CVR unit; I ran a wire directly from the start relay to 1 side of the alt gauge and a separte wire from the other side of the gauge to the fuse block. I have seen member's post pics where they used a 'junction' block rather than a fuse block, and others where they used both.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...reDiagP5-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gncharge-2.jpg
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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Dave, you are right the ammeter is not wired thru the CVR nor is the alternator. Although it is not shown clearly on my diagram, I believe the idiot light is wired from the alt. black-yellow and the ign. sw. black green. This would account for the light coming on with the ign. sw., and indicating a low output from the alt. By the way, my junction block has a single terminal as opposed to a two terminal block indicated on the diagram. So, on my truck, the junction block is in common with the starter relay, alt., ammeter, and ign. sw. all before it even reaches the CVR.

Kurt
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Came across a fuse block for which I have no idea what it was used for, happened upon it at local 'pic n pull' laying for front seat of 66 F250, attached to heavy gage wire. I thought rather than a single pole, what the heck might as well put it to use.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0002-4.jpg
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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From: Chico, Ca.
Way to reuse. Could be the original part for that application. I like the blue heater hoses.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:09 AM
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The ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator) does not affect the ammeter and the oil pressure gauges. Fuel and temp only.

When the ICVR begins to fail, the needles of the fuel and temp gauges have a mind of their own, do the "hula" .. swinging back/forth on their own.

There is only one ICVR for these trucks, doesn't make a difference if it has oil/amp gauges or idiot lights.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #13  
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From: Bozeman,MT
I changed the Speedo unit. Nothing else. It was running perfectly 20 minutes earlier.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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From: Bozeman,MT
Yep- the heavy black/yellow wire is shorted to the body -somewhere.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #15  
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From: Bozeman,MT
I've pulled the instrument panel and disconnected everything again. the heavy blak/yellow wire is shorted to the body somewhere.
 
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