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TO WHAT EXTENT DO THE PROBLEMS WITH THE 5R55E AND 4R55E TRANSMISSIONS OCCUR ON THE 5R44E TRANSMISSION?
MY 2008 RANGER WITH THE 2.3 L ENGINE HAS THE 5R44E TRANSMISSION AND i'M WONDERING WHAT I MAY EXPECT IN THE FUTURE. i AM ASSUMING THAT THE 5R44E IS A LIGHTER DUTY VERSION OF THE 5R55E.
The problems are servo bore wear, which is primary caused by microscopic friction particles in the fluid. In other words the wear is to a very large extent, a function of maintenance. Regardless of what Ford says, the fluid needs to be changed every 20K - 30K miles without exception. Failure to change the fluid causes a buildup of friction material int he fluid. No the filter will not protect it, the filter only catches the larger particles, the really small stuff will pass right through the filter. It will get between servo bores, where it as like a micro abrasive, embedding itself into and wearing into the metal. Once enough damage has been done, the bore no longer seals against pressure, the pressure drops, and delayed engagements, slips, and overall sluggish shifting occurs, which causes heat buildup, which accelerates the failure.
The problems are identical, but the 5R55e and its lighter duty versions are a well designed transmissions of equal or better durability than the transmissions found in other similar vehicles. Compare the the trans failure rate in S-10 Blazers, Durangos, Troopers, Pilots, etc.
If you take care of it, expect at least 200,000 miles out of it.
Maybe consider adding a good quality inline filter, like a Magnefine, or the like, that can filter down to 15u or less, but still provide good flow & change the filter with each tranny fluid pumpout service as has been suggested.
My Ford Dealer Service Manager says they install a Magnefine on every tranny or power steering service they do & claim it has all but eliminated come backs!!!!!
Maybe consider adding a good quality inline filter, like a Magnefine, or the like, that can filter down to 15u or less, but still provide good flow & change the filter with each tranny fluid pumpout service as has been suggested.
My Ford Dealer Service Manager says they install a Magnefine on every tranny or power steering service they do & claim it has all but eliminated come backs!!!!!
X2 ^^^ , if your tranny pan does not have a drain plug think about putting one in , it makes changing fluids easier if you dont want to change the filter all the time !
I would shy away from an inline filter. While they can catch some small particles, these particles will have already passed through the valve body. The only thing those filters protect against is pieces of the torque converter getting into the trans cooler should the torque converter disintegrate. They raise the cooler line pressure, which reduces fluid circulation through the torque converter.
The only real protection you can have is maintenance. Change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles. There are things you can do to increase durability. A valve body calibration kit can firm up a number of shifts and reduce wear and slipping, and an oversized boost valve will increase total line pressure, which will firm up all shifts. These upgrades reduce slipping, which reduces heat and wear, and can compensate for wear and pressure losses over time. They can take a transmission that would last about 50,000 miles in stock form and make it last 200,000 miles plus in the same conditions.
Again, I wouldn't do an inline filter. It doesn't protect against the real failures, and will only protect the trans cooler after a failure has already occurred. The dealer may claim they have no more comebacks, but they are using either new factory or factory rebuilt transmissions that have 30,000 mile warranties, and should not be having a failure in the valve body within that time period with or without a filter. The only place I would use those Magnafine filters is in a situation where there is no factory filter, such as in transmissions with just a metal screen, or in some power steering systems.
I would shy away from an inline filter. While they can catch some small particles, these particles will have already passed through the valve body. The only thing those filters protect against is pieces of the torque converter getting into the trans cooler should the torque converter disintegrate. They raise the cooler line pressure, which reduces fluid circulation through the torque converter.
The only real protection you can have is maintenance. Change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles. There are things you can do to increase durability. A valve body calibration kit can firm up a number of shifts and reduce wear and slipping, and an oversized boost valve will increase total line pressure, which will firm up all shifts. These upgrades reduce slipping, which reduces heat and wear, and can compensate for wear and pressure losses over time. They can take a transmission that would last about 50,000 miles in stock form and make it last 200,000 miles plus in the same conditions.
Again, I wouldn't do an inline filter. It doesn't protect against the real failures, and will only protect the trans cooler after a failure has already occurred. The dealer may claim they have no more comebacks, but they are using either new factory or factory rebuilt transmissions that have 30,000 mile warranties, and should not be having a failure in the valve body within that time period with or without a filter. The only place I would use those Magnafine filters is in a situation where there is no factory filter, such as in transmissions with just a metal screen, or in some power steering systems.
I disagree. That's like saying screw the oil filter cause the damage has already been done. The inline atf filter will do its job, just like the oil filter does it's job. It filters out any junk that is stuck in suspension of the oil and that's it.
If the damage has been done then the damage has been done but filters are there to stop more damage.
Anyone else with thoughts on this matter. Ford says the filter kit is $85 plus another $85 to install it. They further recommend changing A/T fluid before doing any of this.
The truck I purchased had 37 K + miles and I have no service history. The ATF should have been changed at 30 K miles, but I don't know if it was done then. To be on the safe side, I suppose I should have it changed.
Anyone else with thoughts on this matter. Ford says the filter kit is $85 plus another $85 to install it. They further recommend changing A/T fluid before doing any of this.
The truck I purchased had 37 K + miles and I have no service history. The ATF should have been changed at 30 K miles, but I don't know if it was done then. To be on the safe side, I suppose I should have it changed.
A Magnefine filter can be had for between $15-20 & you can easily install it yourself in 30 min, if you can use a screwdriver, pliers & a knife if needed.
Same for a tranny pan drop, filter change & full tranny fluid pumpout before you install the inline filter. The Dealer is right, flush the tranny before installing the in line filter in the rubber tranny return line at the cooler.
If your interested in doing this yourself, there are mini tutorials in this forums "Tech Info" thread. It's really easy to do, even if you've never done this type work before.
To have a pan drop, filter change & full pluid pumpout at a Dealer, or tranny shop in my area, costs about $150 & I cab do it myself for about $60 & a couple of hours of my time.
A Magnefine filter can be had for between $15-20 & you can easily install it yourself in 30 min, if you can use a screwdriver, pliers & a knife if needed.
Same for a tranny pan drop, filter change & full tranny fluid pumpout before you install the inline filter. The Dealer is right, flush the tranny before installing the in line filter in the rubber tranny return line at the cooler.
If your interested in doing this yourself, there are mini tutorials in this forums "Tech Info" thread. It's really easy to do, even if you've never done this type work before.
To have a pan drop, filter change & full pluid pumpout at a Dealer, or tranny shop in my area, costs about $150 & I cab do it myself for about $60 & a couple of hours of my time.
Just curious, but how are you pumping the fluid out without the machine?
Just curious, but how are you pumping the fluid out without the machine?
open the line that runs from the tranny to the radiator cooler. When you start the vehicle, it starts pumping it out the line into a container. pretty easy to do and similar to bleeding the brakes. As in the brakes, don't let the tranny go dry. Just keep filling with fresh and of course you have to keep track of the quantity of fluid you are dumping in and taking out.
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