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Body swap?

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Old 08-21-2011, 09:00 PM
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Body swap?

Well my truck needs a new tranny, as well as other things(leafs, driveshaft, etc etc) I stumbled onto a 3/4 ton frame with all the drivetrain. Mines a half ton btw.

So how hard would it be to throw the body of my truck on there? The bed and front end I know will be easy, but what I am worried about is the wiring harness and things like that. Will a half ton single cab long bed work on a 3/4 frame?

Also would it be easier to just try swapping the drivetrain around? Leaving my body where it is and swapping what I need to get it running?
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:08 PM
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not to scare ya but the pre-77 3/4 4x4's are "high boys" these trucks have different width frames its been done but its alot of work

there are people on here that have done this and know tons more than i do
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:09 PM
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Years and models would help. Frames vary alot from years and models. I put a 76 F150 supercab from a 2wd on a 4x4 78 F250 singlecab frame and the rear mounts were too far apart to attach to the frame rails. I had to fab something up to make it work.
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:13 PM
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My bad on the years guys, they are both '77's. Mines a Ranger 1/2 ton, the frame I'm looking at is a 3/4 but also a '77.
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:19 PM
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lol is it a erly 77 or a late 77 my bad for not clerifying if its a late year 77 3/4 ton (someone correct me if im wrong) it will have a wider fram than the "high boy" and tmk the non highboy frames share the same mounting locations
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:29 PM
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Yeah, the frame rails will be wider on the late one. Post up the VIN on the 3/4 ton and we'll be able to let you know.
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:21 AM
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I don't have the vin yet, I haven't looked at the frame yet lol. Assuming I do buy it and the frame is the same width(I'll bust out the tape measure)

What am I looking at doing if I do try to swap the body over, mostly just concerned with the wiring as I have never been a fan of that...


Also, lets say they are different widths...Can I use things like the leafs and drive shafts from the 3/4 ton on a narrower 1/2 ton frame?
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:53 AM
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Well, you need to clarify if either or both of these vehicles are 2 or 4 wheel drive. I think everyone jumped to the conclusion that were talking 4wd here, but I don't think you specified. Maybe I missed it...

If both vehicles are 2wd that simplifies things. It should be a little more straightforward. The frames should be the same width and the wheelbases are the same, assuming both are standard cabs and 8 ft bed. I don't think you'll have much trouble. The wiring shouldn't be problematic as long as you keep the ENTIRE harness as original. Problems arise when matching A/C to non A/C vehicles, various gauge clusters, different lighting connections, etc. Anything is possible, it's just a matter of making a little extra work.

And if they are 4wd, the 77 F250 may have a narrower frame. Early 77 will, late 77 will be the same width as the F150. If its a 4wd, you won't necessarily need a tape measure. Simply determine whether or not the 250 has a divorced transfer case. Count the driveshafts. If there are 3, it's an early 77 and therefore a hiboy. There will be a little driveshaft between the trans and transfer case.
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:49 AM
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Ya, my bad again, both are 4wd and judging by the craigslist post, I think its not divorced, but it is a leaf spring front end. I'll call him to tonight and go take a look at it. Results later.
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:20 PM
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Well I just got off the phone with him and he said its a married tcase, so hopefully its a later '77 and the body will line up.
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:26 PM
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Went and looked at it, married t case, fuel tank in the rear, and either a 351c or m. He wasn't and I'm not either, but the tranny bolt pattern wasn't for a 351w like what I have.


So I'm gonna get it...How hard is it gonna be to swap this over, the more I think about it the more I think it will just be grunt work lol.
 
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:35 PM
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Look at the ECUs where the wires go into. The color of the plastic molded around the wires indicate different types of ECUs. If they both have the same colors then most stuff should plug right up.
 
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