How do I tighten the ignition switch on my '66 F100? When I turn the key, the whole assembly rotates, so I have to hold the bezel with one hand while turning the key with the other. I've read the posts on how to remove the switch - is that what I need to do?
Thanks

 

Sounds like the tabs are broken off the chrome switch bezel or the spring is broken. Is the switch loose or does it just turn in the hole? Might have to remove it to see what's goin' on.

 

It's not loose, just turns in the hole.

 

Sounds like you need another ignition switch bezel. The hole in the dash has notches on the edge of the hole for the bezel tabs to fit in . Those tabs wear off and allow the whole switch to turn instead of just the key cylinder and internals. Hope this helps

 

(sigh) What in the world? Where did you come up with this info, it's in-correct! How many of these switches, bezels have you ever seen or removed? From what you typed, prolly none.

You'll need the bezel, and possibly the ignition switch.

The bezel has two notches at about 3 & 9 o'clock. The switch has two corresponding raised 'buttons' for the bezel's notches to twist onto.

Between the switch and the backside of the dash is a spacer and coil spring.

(1) The ignition cylinder has to be removed from the switch...first...before the bezel can be accessed, but...

(2) The 'spring loaded' switch must be pushed forward from the backside of the dash to release the tension to then twist the bezel off (a 1/4" turn does the trick).

Some peeps are unaware, they use other methods...usually by using pliers/vice grips to remove the bezel). This tears out the bezel's notches, may ruin the buttons on the switch.

(3) There's a pinhole on the faceplate of the ignition cylinder. The key must be turned to the accessory position, then a thin pointed tool (a nail or paperclip will work) has to be inserted into the hole to remove the cylinder from the switch.

(Uh...It's been 30 years since I had to R&R one a these ignition cylinders, so someone please chime in if I haven't explained it properly).

Some clueless peeps use a blade screw driver or a slide hammer to remove the cylinder from the switch.

The bezel (C3TZ-11584-A) is the same 1961/66 and has been reproduced. The switch (C3AZ-11572-A) can be bought from autoparts stores (it's the same: 1961/66 F100/1100, '61/64 Galaxie, '65/66 Mustang and et cetera).

 

You nailed it Bill as to the removal ..


I replaced my switch a few years ago...frustrating learning as you go...first off...the slots in the bezel and tabs in the switch itself are NOT the same size ...there is a very slight difference from side to side...thus the switch to bezel will fit together properly only one way...once the switch and bezel is in...my hardest part was getting the tumbler in the switch and bezel as it too goes only one way...and is a snug fit...mine initally was a bit tight vs original turning the key...but in my case cycling it a few times helped it set in and it relieved the pressure on it...and thus turning the key returned to original way...smooth as silk...As I recall the keys go in the ignition tumbler keyed edge up...getting tumbler into the switch takes alot of patience...It took me the better part of an hour and a few choice words before I nailed it...

I am pretty sure I have a bezel around here and I know I have a switch if you are in the need...



- cs65

 

Don, I knew the bezel notches and the switch tabs (buttons, whatever you wanna call 'em) were two different sizes, so the bezel can only go on (properly) one way, but...

It's marked ACC OFF ON START ~ So...who in their right mind would install it upside down? I suppose the switch could be mounted upside down, but when the bezel is installed, someone would realize...

 

I've prolly had more apart than you . Your just mad cause you were proven "INCORRECT" in another thread by Bill w and I and your being pissy about it. Why don't you grow up and stop being a 60 something year old dick.

 

Uh huh...yeah right. If you had ever taken one a the switch/bezels off, you would have known what you typed was wild mule ****!

What a crock! The bezel attaches to the switch!

I've sold more of these switches/bezels then you'll ever see, cuz I was a Ford partsman for 35 years, and owned a 1965 F100 for 44 years.

And I wasn't wrong in Bill W's thread, if anyone is wrong, it's FoMoCo. I used the car/truck parts catalogs and Ford paint chip charts to look for Royal Maroon paint...it was not listed as such, just Maroon.

Someone else claimed it wasn't the same as vintage burgundy, but the same part number was used for both.

And I wouldn't be a grouchy soon to be 67 year old SOB if peeps typed correct info, instead of that fairy tale you typed.

 

Here you go, pgr 380. Maybe this will help end the confusion the Self-proclaimed know-it-all started. The two horizontal notches are the locking notches to keep it from turning. The other three are to hold the cup behind the hole in place to keep the switch straight in the dash hole.Here are the tabs on the bezel I was talking about.

 

pgr380or anyone, if you need anything more, I'll do a step by step with pics. It's really easy to do.

 

Would be intersted to know if it's the switch that rotates or the key assembly/cylinder, or both. Had a simular problem, not only did the key assembly rotate but was able to remove the key with the engine runnning, or in the run position. Found the key cylinder had been installed incorrectly.

 

Ha,ha,ha I liek this tread..Finally between all of the I know more than you,,,it's a real helpfull information, I was one of thos ethat almost use the Pulley slide hammer to remove the hell of one of my old trcuks ignition sweetch!.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll definitely avoid the screwdriver/hammer route! Step by step pics would be great.
daveengleson, both the cylinder and bezel rotate when I turn the key.
camperspecial65, I may take you up on the offer once I get around to removing the switch and see what the issue is.

 

i dont think the bezel fits the notches in the dash! behind the bezel there is a bell shaped piece with the spring that stops it from turning... the bell shaped thingy has the tabs on it to fit the dash.


and 65Jim.... lets not start name calling... Bill (ND) is right 99.9% of the time and i think he likes trying to get under my skin, but i have tough sunburned leather skin. so he dont bother me any.... not like he used too!