Rear Block swap, plus leveling?
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Rear Block swap, plus leveling?
Hey everyone,
First post here. I've got a couple questions.
My dad has a 2002 F350 with the 7.3L diesel. He has a 2" leveling lift in the front with 35" tires all around.
I will be buying a 2001 Ford f250 with the 7.3L diesel as well and I will be putting 35's on it too.
Now for the question. I want to put the F350 suspension blocks in the rear to lift it up and I want to level it out in the front. So would I just get the F350 rear blocks and a 2" leveling kit for the front? Or would I need a 4" leveling kit for the front?
When this F250 is sitting next to my dads F350 I want it to be the same exact hight as his all around.
Thanks!
First post here. I've got a couple questions.
My dad has a 2002 F350 with the 7.3L diesel. He has a 2" leveling lift in the front with 35" tires all around.
I will be buying a 2001 Ford f250 with the 7.3L diesel as well and I will be putting 35's on it too.
Now for the question. I want to put the F350 suspension blocks in the rear to lift it up and I want to level it out in the front. So would I just get the F350 rear blocks and a 2" leveling kit for the front? Or would I need a 4" leveling kit for the front?
When this F250 is sitting next to my dads F350 I want it to be the same exact hight as his all around.
Thanks!
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,607
Likes: 151
From: SE Georgia
Fronts are the same height. Only the rear is different between the F250/F-350
So put the 350 blocks in there and whatever size leveling kit your dad has. You should sit damn near the same rake and height
So put the 350 blocks in there and whatever size leveling kit your dad has. You should sit damn near the same rake and height
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Front height will vary, but not on a '250vs350' basis, but based on the capacity of the front springs; this will matter if you're using a zero rate pack or add-a-leafs to level instead of new replacement springs. Check the VIN tag on the driver's door for the spring code, compare the 350 spring code to the 250 spring code; if the 250 springs are a lighter code then the 350, you might need to up the front lift an inch or two to accomodate.
But after 10 years it might be a moot point because both truck will have sagged a good bit with the cast-iron beast pounding on them. Check how flattened out the springs on the new truck are before you spend the money on a leveling kit, X-code replacements can be had, might be worth the money to just replace the whole pack.
But after 10 years it might be a moot point because both truck will have sagged a good bit with the cast-iron beast pounding on them. Check how flattened out the springs on the new truck are before you spend the money on a leveling kit, X-code replacements can be had, might be worth the money to just replace the whole pack.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
250- 1.5"
350- 3.5"
2wd trucks:
250- no block
350- 1.5"
Taper varies by cab/bed configuration.
Been this way the whole SD lineup, so barring owner mods it's pretty easy to know what's back there.
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Geeze! You guys know a ton. So when/if I get this truck check the lead springs first? But to level it out I planned on using the "add-a-leaf" style. Plus both trucks are the 4x4 not the 2x4. Now I understand why Dulleys are so low.
Another quick questions while I'm at it...
1. When I go to check the potential truck out what should I really look for?
2. Major points of failure with the 2001 bodies? If any?
3. Any way to tell if the ball joints are bad?
4. What to watch out for on the test drive?
Sorry I've got so many questions. I'm just really eager to get my own truck.
Thanks again!
Another quick questions while I'm at it...
1. When I go to check the potential truck out what should I really look for?
2. Major points of failure with the 2001 bodies? If any?
3. Any way to tell if the ball joints are bad?
4. What to watch out for on the test drive?
Sorry I've got so many questions. I'm just really eager to get my own truck.
Thanks again!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
Here is a great buyer's guide of the 7.3's https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
Also many people just use the shackle hangers to level the front, cheap and maintains the same ride quality.
Also many people just use the shackle hangers to level the front, cheap and maintains the same ride quality.
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
I can't say anyhing about buying a 7.3L engine, but to check the BJs you have to jack up the wheels and pry on them, or listen real good for a popping sound going over speed bumps in a parking lot.
I didn't mention a shackle lift, I'm embarrased. Even with that, check the front spring code (you can look up what the codes mean in the Tech Folder sticky at the top of this forum) and then look how flat they are. An AAL will definately stiffen up the pack some, which is probably a good thing after 10 years, maybe combine it with a shackle and you'll be good to go.
On the body, check the inside lip of both rear fender openings on the bed for any kind of foam; it holds water and makes the fenders rust from the inside out. Look for orange-peel texture in the paint to see where body damage was fixed, ask if Bondo was invovlved. Check the cab mounts for rust. Actually, since you're in IL... check everything for rust. Check the bushings in the leaf spring mounts for corosion, the diff covers and pinions on the axle housings for excess oil leakage. Make sure the hubs turn and release the stub shaft, maybe save up for Warn Premiums anyways.
If you buy the truck you need to tear into the brakes in a hurry and check the caliper slide pins to make sure nothing is frozen, these trucks can eat brake pads if you don't watch the brakes.
I didn't mention a shackle lift, I'm embarrased. Even with that, check the front spring code (you can look up what the codes mean in the Tech Folder sticky at the top of this forum) and then look how flat they are. An AAL will definately stiffen up the pack some, which is probably a good thing after 10 years, maybe combine it with a shackle and you'll be good to go.
On the body, check the inside lip of both rear fender openings on the bed for any kind of foam; it holds water and makes the fenders rust from the inside out. Look for orange-peel texture in the paint to see where body damage was fixed, ask if Bondo was invovlved. Check the cab mounts for rust. Actually, since you're in IL... check everything for rust. Check the bushings in the leaf spring mounts for corosion, the diff covers and pinions on the axle housings for excess oil leakage. Make sure the hubs turn and release the stub shaft, maybe save up for Warn Premiums anyways.
If you buy the truck you need to tear into the brakes in a hurry and check the caliper slide pins to make sure nothing is frozen, these trucks can eat brake pads if you don't watch the brakes.
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