Quick Alternator fix?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
Quick Alternator fix?
I just got a new regulator and alternator for my '71 F250. When I started it, one of the wires going to the alternator got smoked 
. The PO scabbed his own wiring harness on. I went back to the original and it worked for about a year up until now.
So I just want to wire it up to get by for now. Does anybody have a diagram of what I need to make it charge?
. The PO scabbed his own wiring harness on. I went back to the original and it worked for about a year up until now.So I just want to wire it up to get by for now. Does anybody have a diagram of what I need to make it charge?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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here's a diagram for the old 1g alternators.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...ng-1g-alt2.gif
but if you're going to have to put a lot of work into it, you may as well just upgrade to the 3g- its less wire, and more output.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...ng-1g-alt2.gif
but if you're going to have to put a lot of work into it, you may as well just upgrade to the 3g- its less wire, and more output.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
but if you're going to have to put a lot of work into it, you may as well just upgrade to the 3g- its less wire, and more output.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg[/quote]
I may have something wired wrong in my head, but I LOVE to wire things.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg[/quote]
I may have something wired wrong in my head, but I LOVE to wire things.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 215
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From: California
here's a diagram for the old 1g alternators.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...ng-1g-alt2.gif
but if you're going to have to put a lot of work into it, you may as well just upgrade to the 3g- its less wire, and more output.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...ng-1g-alt2.gif
but if you're going to have to put a lot of work into it, you may as well just upgrade to the 3g- its less wire, and more output.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/atta...tall-early.jpg
Do you know if the circuit you posted with the 70's "ALT" cluster gauge?
Thanks!
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,182
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drainbramage- look at the very bottom of the upper blue-colored box in the 3g diagram, i think that covers your gauge cluster. if you don't have a warning light, you'll need a resistor.
i've been pulling these out of the pick-n-pull for $25.
spin the pulley to see if the bearings are good, pop the regulator off to make sure there is plenty of brush left, and no deep grooves on the shaft.
get the wiring harness and the "mega-fuse" (its in the front of the fuse box), then pick up one of these from NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006393830&An=0
the yard hasn't been charging me for the fuse/harness, so total cost is about $35.
i've been pulling these out of the pick-n-pull for $25.
spin the pulley to see if the bearings are good, pop the regulator off to make sure there is plenty of brush left, and no deep grooves on the shaft.
get the wiring harness and the "mega-fuse" (its in the front of the fuse box), then pick up one of these from NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006393830&An=0
the yard hasn't been charging me for the fuse/harness, so total cost is about $35.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 618
Likes: 1
From: central oregon
Here's my two cents! was the best thing to do for my 72 with all of the electronics that I'm running, It was also very easy to do an didn't cost a lot so go for it!
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 215
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From: California
drainbramage- look at the very bottom of the upper blue-colored box in the 3g diagram, i think that covers your gauge cluster. if you don't have a warning light, you'll need a resistor.
i've been pulling these out of the pick-n-pull for $25.
spin the pulley to see if the bearings are good, pop the regulator off to make sure there is plenty of brush left, and no deep grooves on the shaft.
get the wiring harness and the "mega-fuse" (its in the front of the fuse box), then pick up one of these from NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006393830&An=0
the yard hasn't been charging me for the fuse/harness, so total cost is about $35.
i've been pulling these out of the pick-n-pull for $25.
spin the pulley to see if the bearings are good, pop the regulator off to make sure there is plenty of brush left, and no deep grooves on the shaft.
get the wiring harness and the "mega-fuse" (its in the front of the fuse box), then pick up one of these from NAPA.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006393830&An=0
the yard hasn't been charging me for the fuse/harness, so total cost is about $35.
Any tips for removing the serpentine pulley from the 3g? Is there any source out there for a V groove pulley so I don't have to rip apart my 1g?
Thanks guys!
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Posting Guru
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i've been taking the pulleys off with an impact wrench. so far, they've come off really easily, so i wouldn't worry too much about messing the 1g up by removing it. just put a glove on, and get a good grip on the pulley.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 215
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From: California
Please excuse my ignorance, but I'm kinda an electrical moron and would prefer not to let the magic blue smoke out of my electrical system. If I'm reading the diagram correctly, the only factory wiring I need to touch is the "I" wire from the factory regulator. All I do is to re-route it to the "I" terminal on the 3g and add a 510-560 ohm resistor inline. The rest is the obvious high power stuff on the diagram, correct? Does it matter if the alternator output goes to the starter post, or can it go directly to the battery?
Last question... out of curiosity, are any of you guys running a buss bar for power? Things are started to get crowded with the headlight relay harness, electric fan harness, factory stuff, etc all on that starter relay post. Any comments?
Posting Guru
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it shouldn't matter whether you connect the alternator output to the battery, or the starter post. the battery is connected directly to that post, so there's no difference.
as for the rest- i think you're on the money.
i've been looking hard at this buss bar. there is an cover available for it.
Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 2303 150 Ampere Common BusBar (4 x 1/4-Inch Stud Terminal): Sports & Outdoors
you'd want to put the mega-fuse between the alternator and the buss.
as for the rest- i think you're on the money.
i've been looking hard at this buss bar. there is an cover available for it.
Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 2303 150 Ampere Common BusBar (4 x 1/4-Inch Stud Terminal): Sports & Outdoors
you'd want to put the mega-fuse between the alternator and the buss.
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