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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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blue66tang95f150's Avatar
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Clutch Issues

Hey guys. I have been very happy with my truck for the past 40k miles. Before that I was getting pretty sick of it. I was tired of fixing all the little things that kept going wrong. Anyway, I have done nothing in 40k, but I have always had a clutch problem. The clutch has to be pushed all the way down to the stop for it to disengage. This is not a huge deal for me because i am 6'5", however nobody wants to just hop in and move my truck cause nobody can get it into gear and shift the dang thing. I even have a hard time getting it into gear sometimes. The clutch just does not disengage enough. What the heck is wrong with it? there is ZERO play between the pedal master-cylinder. I have even tried new bushings, but that did nothing. Again there is zero play. So it has to be in the master, slave or clutch.

Any help?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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its just time for a new clutch, home many miles are on her?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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245k,

I bought the truck at 170k, and I have no idea if/when the clutch was done before.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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You way want to swap to a solid mass flywheel while you're in there. That's a very popular mod around here.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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Clutch fork could be damaged, the clutch fork pivot bushing could be worn.
and the throw out could be worn as well

All these can contribute to your issue
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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All of the above, could also be pedal play, worn bushing/rod.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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He said play in the pedals and bushings is not an issue.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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Sorry, I read bushings, did not pick up on "zero play" I would think if there is still a dual mass, that's it. The last one we had go you had to pump 27 times to get in 1st gear and it would scrape when shifting if you did not watch RPM's.
 

Last edited by 540milotalon; Aug 6, 2011 at 11:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Well I guess this winter I will dig into it and replace everything clutch related. I need to replace the ball joints too. I will probably put it in the shop for a couple of weeks and just get everything fixed up. I have been watching for a dana 60 cause I really don't want to put money into the ttb front end, but i guess It has lasted 245k with out any major problems, why couldnt it go another 100k+.

....hmm bigger injectors sound good too
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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little FYI, the pivot ball only comes in kits of 2 at the tune of 45$ each. so call around, alot of ford dealers i found dont stock them. i found one that had 1 left, ever one else would only sell 2 of them in 1 order. but i think your on the right track, order a nice kit from valair if your thinking injectors and do every thing over. single mass fly wheels can make some noise in neutral some times other than that i couldnt be happier with mine.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rideracelivemx7
little FYI, the pivot ball only comes in kits of 2 at the tune of 45$ each. so call around, alot of ford dealers i found dont stock them. i found one that had 1 left, ever one else would only sell 2 of them in 1 order. but i think your on the right track, order a nice kit from valair if your thinking injectors and do every thing over. single mass fly wheels can make some noise in neutral some times other than that i couldnt be happier with mine.

Oops sorry I switched subjects on ya. I was talking about the front ball joints on the front end.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rideracelivemx7
little FYI, the pivot ball only comes in kits of 2 at the tune of 45$ each. so call around, alot of ford dealers i found dont stock them. i found one that had 1 left, ever one else would only sell 2 of them in 1 order. but i think your on the right track, order a nice kit from valair if your thinking injectors and do every thing over. single mass fly wheels can make some noise in neutral some times other than that i couldnt be happier with mine.
New one to me.
I bought 1 without any issues.
 
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