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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Another AOD question

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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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skynyrdcat's Avatar
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Another AOD question

I posted a question about an AOD swap but when I was checking into my 86 F150 4X2 302 today I noticed that when I jack up the rear, I have power to the wheel when the truck is in Neutral. I checked the shift by hand (with the linkage unhooked) to make sure it was in neutral and it was.
I will not pull the truck with the wheels on the ground, but will get some serious rotation with them off the ground.

Is there an adjustment I can check into before swapping that might cure my ills?

It doesn't have O/D, I've checked / adjusted the TV cable, maybe when the guy rebuilt it a few yrs ago he got something internal out of adjustment (it's been parked for 3 yrs.

I also changed filter and ran some sea foam (for transmissions) thru.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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IIRC that behavior is normal although I forget the technical explanation, perhaps somebody else knows more off the top of their head.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Its called "gear drag" or "gear creep". Usually nothing to worry about unless it does pull while the vehicle is on the ground. Depending on transmission design it could pull forward or reverse while in neutral with wheels off ground.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddiec1564
Its called "gear drag" or "gear creep". Usually nothing to worry about unless it does pull while the vehicle is on the ground. Depending on transmission design it could pull forward or reverse while in neutral with wheels off ground.
OK, Thanks guys. This thing just seems so quirky, I guess I'm just "reaching" a little for an easier fix than a swap out. Oh well, at least it's a fairly easy swap compared to my ol lady's Contour CD4E. I'll never swap another one of those!!!
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Biggest problem you will have is with the crossmember bolts. They are 15mm haed and the nuts are 18mm. The nuts are what is called "prevailing torque" and will fight you all the way off. You can "cheat" by taking the gussets (small angled plates at each and) loose at the top just far enough you can lift them clear of the crossmember. The crossmember between the radius rod mounts that passes under the converter housing should be bolted only (older models were rivited) and if removed makes the job easier.
 
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