To all
I am considering replacing my steering compents. I have a 70 wagon with the drive train from a 76 and a 3.5 inch lift, power steering and brakes . Like most of my older fords it wanders all over the road. I am thinking that it is not just one worn part but a combination of it all, steering box, steering shaft, steering column bearing ect. It does have the upgraded y type linkage from TBP. I see Toms and Jeffs have a kit- any preference as to the better one. Are the saginaw pump worth the money? My autozone replacement chatters right out of the box. Are these steering boxes fully rebuilt- I have heard these things only get seals and bearings replaced?

 

Tom's and Jeff's are both good vendors. I'd use the closest one to save on shipping. Wandering can be caused by a number of things. I would try to narrow it down a bit. Check for play in the steering box, track bar etc. Toe in and caster will help control it and something as simple as tire pressure. 25-28 lbs seems to work well. Check for wear patterns on your tires now and after doing anything else. Have the alignment checked, while very few places can actually align these anymore except for toe in, it gives you the numbers so you know where you stand. A 3 1/2" lift should have 7 degree C bushings. Hope this helps at least somewhat.

 

Not sure what U mean by wanders. Sounds like geometry. U have new linkage? That may eliminate a bent TR's effect. Folks know if 3.5 lift needs a drop pitman...it's right @ the limit...would that effect this wandering?

 

To me wandering is holding the steering wheel in one position while driving on a straight level road and the vehicle veering to one side and back to the other- not alignment that pulls to one side. I have a couple of old fords, in particular a 79 short bed 4x4 that has been restored. Most everything has been replaced or refurbished-ball joints, steering linkage, steering box, alignment checked, new tires properly inflated. What I find is just a little play in the bo not much) a little play in the rag joint, a little play in the bearing at the end of the steering column. This all adds up to having to constantly having to correct at the wheel, maybe its the oversized tires- I run 32-11.5 on both of these? I drive this Bronco a couple times a week and really want to make it something that is reliable as possible. I guess my real question is- If you buy a steering box from Jeffs or Toms- is it completely rebuild. I have heard that when you buy a rebuilt from an auto parts store, they only replace the seals. The one I bought for the 79 has as much play as the one I took off . I have read on one of these sites that their is a place out West that completely rebuilds these?

 

Best thing to do is call the vendor and ask. I'm sure they don't rebuild them inhouse. West Texas has a good rep for rebuilds on other forums, but no link for you. All that little play here and there, compounds as it moves down the line. Good luck, a friend has been chasing same problem for a year now.

 

a place out West
yes, they get good rep0rts on CB. But that is most expensive, Y not start @ the cheep end?
1) A look C @ the geomitry is free. C if all components R square. 2) Does anything feel loose w/vehicle jacked up? 3) no steering stabilizer?

Veering is not quite a TR, that would B "darting" if U attempt to hold straight & go offa that just a slight, wee, lill' - the angel w/ the bent TR "goes beyond" the point of straight & cuz bent - throws the vehicle off 2 1 side...

"...drive train from a 76..." (motor, 2 drive shafts, axels?, frnt & rear 'chunks'). NOT the frame as well? The '70 did not have the 'Y', it wuz 'T'. U may have the wrong linkage. Got the '76/7 discs up frnt? T is F150 style (3 adj sleaves, T shaped, etc).

U could go to that (steering) on our forum here or gen tech Qs @ CB. I am no automotive ex-spirt ( or any ex-spirt - a has been, H2O under pressure).

I have the Y linkage on mine & am in process of removal. Not good for off rd, too fragile.
Secondly, (or am I up to thirdly?) after these, consult a frnt end specialist. Not just an alignment shop - that's often a kid (knows only rack n pinion) just runs the machine...

 

Yup
It is a bit of every year. But the body is a 70 and I traded the original drive train for the 76- both complete axles + c4, power brakes and steering out of the same truck. The 76 required the y type linkage- so I bought new from Jeffs. How much play is acceptable in these steering boxes?

 

Then it's basicly the same as mine, I just put the 70 bod on the 77 frame.

much play
as 1 person wiggles the ster wheel another should observe only a couppla - 5 degrees slop B 4 the tires move. Now that's a non mechanic's offering. Don't 4 get there's plenty of bushings, ball joints etc between, that's why I suggested U jack it up to check the rest. I'm still pointin U to the geomitry. Look @ the angels from the front of the truck (while rig is on the ground). Any bent linkage? Is the long TR that attaches to the pass side @ the same angle as the track bar? How's the ball joints..all effects it.
Whaddaya think Richard?

 

Now that I think about it- I am pretty sure this was a manual stering truck. I am wondering if one of the previous owners put the right stering box and linkage in it. But I agree. Before I go spending a ton of money I will have someone turn the wheel while I look at the entire linkage- maybe I will get lucky and find something cheap?

 

Yeah, 70 had to be manual steering. No big deal there, I put PS on my 66. Track bar and drag link need to be as close to parellel as possible. I would fix the small problems you have already seen. It doesn't take much sometimes. If you find a set of shop manuals, it will tell you how to setup the box. Too complicated for me to explain. So many possibilities. Here is a link to a thread that you may be able to gain some information from: Handling - running out of ideas - ClassicBroncos.com Forums

 

Thanks to all for the help- I will let you know what I find out

 

what I find out
Don't 4 get pitman needs to B different ('75 to 76& above)for the taper change between the 2 and over 3.5 inch lift (drop pitman).
Yeah, keep in touch - more Qs or cuz U found the answer.
More tips from on-line:

Squrriley stearing

Does the truck generally shoot in the same direction each time? Generally if
the geometry looks right I would check track bar bushings to make sure they
are not worn out. Since it is happening during weight shift to the front I
have to ask if it does the same thing when you hit a bump that compresses the
front suspension. You say everything is tight but you may not be able to see
the movement of the track bar bushings when you move the front
suspension...(not as much movement as the rest of the front end components.) I really like the poly bushings for the track bar because they are a bit more firm than the
original rubber type. Also the poly bushings in this application do not limit
articulation like the poly "C" bushings. Hard to diagnose without seeing it
but that is where I would start. After that I would move on to the "C"
bushings, then check the steering linkages and finally the radius arm bushings(These
IMO have the least effect on steering than the rest of the bushings. HTH
Karl Russell
(he's from N. Carol. n has a 'pane' fueled sm six w/a weed wacker drink mixer on tail gate!!!)


I know this is a few days old. But thought I'd give alittle input. It sounds like to me like your caster is out of whack. New c-bushings will help correct this.I believe a 4 degree bushing will work with a 3.5" lift. A 7 degree bushing may give you too much caster. You did not state if you had a steering stabilizer. If you don't, I would suggest one. Also, I would not adjust the set screw in the steering box. It is not an adjustment screw it drives the worm gear into the shaft and will eventually cause failure. If these things do not help, check all of your front end components for wear i.e.: radius arm bushings, tie ends, drag link, ball joints, trac bar. I would also check that the steering box is tight and that the frame is not flexing at the box. If you still can't figure it out get it to an alignment shop and have them check it out. Just my $0.02. And professional opinion.

Ronnie Belmonte goodreligion316@yahoo.com
71 EB
Zephyrhills, FL

 

Here is my experience: The best setup is the single bar from knuckle to knuckle and then a drag link from that bar to the the pitman arm. The setup I think you have is a link from the pitman arm to a knuckle and then a link from that bar to the other knuckle..... that setup is not as good for control.

If you have bigger tires, over 30" , it pays to get rid of the rag joint in the steering between the end of the column and the steering shaft the connects from the column to the steering box and install a borgeson solid universal joint.

I have never had issues with the stock power steering box on tires up to 35"

Also make sure like other have said you have the proper drop pitman arm, and a drop track bar bracket too so the suspension has the proper geometry.

 

Thanks Buba. (I know he has more knowledge than me.)
I don't believe the drop (or rise, as some use now) track bar frame mount is needed w/3.5 " lift.
I agree the universial helps @ the shaft but don't think it's necessary (one less item, tho) 4 dis prob.
Agree the pump is sufficient (if wrking, but won't effect this problem either way, I can stand corrected).
I'm still thinkin bout his geomitry and if he got the right indexed pitman 4 the yr linkage-not amount a lift. Whadda ya think BF? gfw 1985?
Not bein therre w/this type a thing is tough, any more specificity in description can help a little - it's kinda like tryin 2 describe an exhaust note...everyone uses different wrds 4 the same thing or the same wrds 4 different things.
8^0
Think bout BF's description of the linkage...

 

thanks chrlsfl, I also forgot to answer the question about the pump....a Saginaw is a better pump than the stock bronco pump..... expect to pay 300 for a new one at a bronco place. Also you will need a new pulley because the saginaw shaft is bigger than the stock bronco shaft.... you will also need a new bracket for the saginaw as well, which you can get from JBG. Their bracket works for both pumps, and it is a very good bracket, I have one, and it works great.

You can also use a pump of an 80s for truck on the stock bracket as well, and I believe a 5.0 mustang too. Which is also an upgrade to the stock setup.