Mine did the same...I only had about a finger width between the bump stops and the springs.

The V codes are off of F250s (Stewart, if you are reading this correct me if I'm wrong on the models)...same number of leaves but stiffer (rated to support more weight), and in my case gave me about 2" of lift as compared to my tired stock springs.

Ford didn't want to scare away soccer moms with a "big truck" ride so they went soft on the front springs and after 80-90K, the soccer dads were frowning right back at the stock springs that started the whole mess by frowning in the first place.

I personally would have had a "nose up" rake had I done just the V code front fix, so I (and most others) needed to do something with the rear to maintain the stance I wanted.

The RAS is "Roadmaster Active Suspension"...a kit you bolt on that rides from the rear axle to the aft spring mount that helps give you more lift on the rear by helping the rear spring maintain its arc. I don't now for sure how much it gives you in terms of lift though. I personally wanted to treat the disease (sagging front and rear springs) and not the symptom (aid my sagging rear springs with an aftermarket product) so I went with different rear springs. And THAT leads us to:

B Codes! Again, off of F250s, a stiffer spring. This is where a BUNCH of options come in so you have to make a decision. You can:
1) Keep your stock rear springs and swap your stock rear blocks with 3.5" tapered blocks. Not sure if this is a level stance or a rear-up stance.
2) Put on B code springs and a slightly taller rear block (don't know the size exactly - someone chime in here please). This gives you a level stance.
3) Get your donor B code springs, take them apart, add the smallest two leaves from your stock springs to the bottom of the B codes, swap the B code spacers with your stock leaf spacers and keep your stock blocks, giving you the "Modded B Code" rear springs (this is what I did). This gives you a slightly rear-up stance.

There are also other options for swaps (X codes in the front, etc.etc.), but from what I've read the V code fronts with some variation of B code or B code and RAS in the rear seems to be the most popular.

There is a thread "V/B Code swap step by step" that shows the steps and some of our photos. I personally got about 2" of front and rear lift as compared to the sagging stock front and rear springs. I don't know what the ride height was stock, but I'm assuming I passed up the "brand new" ride height by maybe 1"-1 1/4"?

 

My V Code/Modified B code has my face and my springs smiling again. This fix is said to often fix the "wandering steering" issue by stiffening the rear (helping track better when towing and stopping the spring wrap issue under acceleration) and stiffen the front to keep you pointed where you put the wheel. I didn't realize how bad my steering wander was, but now my giant Excursion feels like it steers as tight as my wife's 07 Jetta.

I used to have to put a lot of corrections to the wheel as I drove...now on flat spots of the freeway I can let go of the wheel and she tracks straight, even when towing (don't do that often though, I don't want to tempt fate and blow a front tire, lol).

 

I'm learning quickly...
WE3ZS, Posted pictures of his truck before and after and it's impressive what the spring swap did. Thanks. I'll look into springs and the longer shackles you mention.

 

Thanks a TON. I'm taking it all in..
The wander you mention, I let go of my wheel and I'll end up in the atlantic ocean. My X wanders bad. Only 49K miles on it too. I correct the steering within 1-2" left to right on a parkway. I thought it was the Damper shot. After much reading, I think I'm going with the mods you mention but not the Mod B. Have to see. That extra bit of height might help when trailer hanging behind.

A big thanks to all giving great input. Going outside to look at my codes.

PS: Do I go to Ford for these parts or is there a website to buy at a reasonable price?

 

You can, but be prepared to leave with an empty wallet...most guys use Tousley for new parts, but you can usually find them even cheaper by calling around to local lift shops for take-offs or like I did - call your local truck dismantler.

 

Thx Rob. I figured Ford would hit me over the head. We don't have lift companies in NY that I know of unless they're far upstate. Salvage yards and chop shops are a dime a dozen tho. I'll look at that site. Thx.

 

If possible, try to get ones that are still on the truck. A VIN doesn't tell you the suspension code, only the door sticker does. And a bunch of us have tried to decode the numbers on the spring to no avail.

I made sure the shop I used had them on the truck, and I physically went out to the trucks to make sure the suspension code was correct. I didn't want some half-rate yard selling me springs they 'THOUGHT' were the right code. If I'd have done all the work to find they sold me the wrong springs I'd have been p!$$ed!

 

I second being POed. Isn't there away to tell rear 350 springs? I was looking on EBay and found a few that had that spacer unde the top leaf. It was listed as a f250-f350sd and it looked just like the pictures that guys did BMods on... Cellphone posted. Sorry if my English is Spanglish..

 

Same issue for the rear - you can't tell from the VIN, only from the door sticker.

There are a LOT of variants on the rear springs, so it's even more of a crap shoot...you could end up with something so stiff your teeth rattle.

I think you mean the upper overload leaf? That will need removed no matter what - or you could tear up the rear AC lines (unless you do what someone on here did and re-route them).

I'd stay away from anyone on-line who can't provide a pic of that door sticker...too much of a gamble.

 

Yes overload leaf. Learning as I go. 😂👍
Ok, I'll look deeper. However, if I find keepers that overload is eliminated? I'll have to look at those pictures again. I printed someone upgrade step by step.

 

Show us the pic...some come with the overload leaf, some don't. Mine had the overload leaf while it was on the truck, but the yard sold me just the spring - they removed the overload.

Again...it all comes down to the door sticker to be sure the 'base' spring pack is the one you want. Upper/Lower overload leaves can be easily removed, but if the base spring pack isn't what you want, you'll be unhappy no matter what you add/remove.

 

eBay #230750747498 if you want to check it out.

 

Those look a lot like B codes - but again, only the side sticker will be 100% positive identification.

 

I emailed the seller to get details. I'll let ya know. Thxs for looking.

 

I think you're right.