When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
EXv10, I do have 4wd and no, I did not mention anything in this thread about my my springs be bad, front ir back. I just wanted to know about bump stops because mine are all bad.
That makes no sense. I have 3/4" space in there and do offroading and have the same components he has. It only bottoms out on big dips etc.
What engine does the OP have? If he has a diesel, then it weighs a lot more than your V10 and is gonna wear out the front springs faster than yours. I know the 7.3 weighs 920 pounds vs. 500 pounds for the V10.
What engine does the OP have? If he has a diesel, then it weighs a lot more than your V10 and is gonna wear out the front springs faster than yours. I know the 7.3 weighs 920 pounds vs. 500 pounds for the V10.
I didn't think about the difference in engine weight.
Those are all very good points. I will check. I know I can adjust the door so that it opens farther. My tires still have alot of tread so new tires won't be too much higher than it is now. Now did you have 3" of clearance with the roof racks or without?
Look on your center track on the garage door (the track that the chain/belt rides on that goes between the door and the garage door opener).
They operate in a few ways based on how old the opener is...one is a set device on the chain/belt that hits a sensor at the garage door opener, telling it to stop. It can be moved along the belt/chain to adjust. To make the door open further, move it closer to the door, to make it open less, move it towards the opener.
Another method is a stop on the track itself that senses the bar that connects the garage door to the chain/belt/track. It uses a set screw and can be moved...you can usually see a wire between it and the garage door opener.
Finally, the nice openers just track the amount of turns the gear makes in the opener. Typically somewhere on the garage door opener housing (most often you need to look where the light bulbs plug in - you may need to remove a shield/diffuser to see them). You'll see some screw looking adjusters for open and closed...turn one direction to pull the door farther in, the other to open it less. Get the model number of your garage door opener and google it and add "pdf" to the end, you can usually find the owners manual that way.
Tip: If when open the door is already open above the opening, or if when it's open the connector bar is already touching the housing, don't bother.
If I am reading this right, your rear slapper bar snubbers are bad? If so, go to Advance Auto and buy the Energy Suspension snubbers. I think they are for another application but they fit fine. I have had them on mine for about 10K miles. They are black but I do not have a part number.
Hey guys. Sorry I'm a complete NEWB!!
With that said, I just joined to find out if my 2005 v10 4wd X has spent front and rear leafs. My X has little if any clearance and weighing my options to lift it for clearance and more ride height or Replace the factory Leafs and solve my issue. I bottom out at the smallest potholes or even creaping over speed bumps. Advice??
Hey guys. Sorry I'm a complete NEWB!!
With that said, I just joined to find out if my 2005 v10 4wd X has spent front and rear leafs. My X has little if any clearance and weighing my options to lift it for clearance and more ride height or Replace the factory Leafs and solve my issue. I bottom out at the smallest potholes or even creaping over speed bumps. Advice??
This is lots of reading, but the more info you have, the easier it will be to decide what you wanna do.
In short, I want to stop bottoming out. If I need new leafs should I just do a lift for more clearance and height?
Sorry, I'm posting from a phone. 👍
If you have the original springs and are bottoming out, I'd say you need to do at a minimum the V code swap (and do whatever you want to the rear to get the stance you want - RAS, B codes, Modified B codes, etc.).
If you have the original springs and are bottoming out, I'd say you need to do at a minimum the V code swap (and do whatever you want to the rear to get the stance you want - RAS, B codes, Modified B codes, etc.).
Rob thxs. I was just going to ask what those are. So What are the V code, RAS, B codes & modified B codes?
I always thought leafs were shaped like a smile. Mine are frowns. For lack of a better discription. Ready to snap over my axles. Truck sits level tho.
Rob thxs. I was just going to ask what those are. So What are the V code, RAS, B codes & modified B codes?
I always thought leafs were shaped like a smile. Mine are frowns. For lack of a better discription. Ready to snap over my axles. Truck sits level tho.
Many newer leaf springs are frowning. I think an engineer concluded that it is better and the frown was born. And guys; don't forget about longer shackles in front.