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I have an extra known good FICM and tried it with no start. I have to go home(6 hours away) tomorrow morning so any testing will have to wait until I get back to the cabin next weekend. I plan on purchasing a scangaugeII next week before I make the drive back up.
Here is a tip unhook the cable that along the passenger side fender it has a quick release on it seperate the wires and hook the one to the battery your truck will crank and run but will not drive. If it runs good you have elimated problems of starting with oil, fuel and air. Hopes this helps i can send a picture of the wire if that helps
also MAC tools have a Task Master scan tool its the best has ever option on it and you can turn on and off different sensors, does engine transmission and ABS system as well as gauge gluster so it would really help you identify the problem
Acceptable ICP volts at key-on/engine-off for a 2005 is between 0.15 to 0.35 volts as per Ford PC/ED specs. However, it is usually around 0.24 volts at key-on/engine-off. If it fails to reach 0.8 volts while cranking the engine over, the PCM will not command the injectors to fire (FUEL_PW will remain at 0). Unplugging the ICP sensor will put the ICP sensor input to the PCM a default value of 870 psi, thereby causing the PCM to command the injectors to pulse (FUEL_PW the normal values at initial engine startup).
HOWEVER, if there really is less than 500 psi of ICP pressure, the truck will not start (even if injectors are commanded to fire, due to the ICP sensor being unplugged), due to not having physically enough fuel pressure INSIDE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER to overcome the cylinder pressure of the compression itself.
You had better get yourself a scan tool to read some data with, or else you're wasting your time.
Does it even "try" to fire off (as in sputter, fart, sneeze), or just crank over as if you're just cranking the engine over with the key in the OFF position?
If I use the SGII to find the IPC to not have sufficient V to start, wouldn't unplugging it allow the truck to start or no?
Please excuse my ignorance...
You should unhook that cable and try and start it that way if the ignition cable hooked up to the battery does start it then you have elimated the sensor's, so you can save yourself the need for the scan tool. If it runs then you have a problem from your ignition to your computer.
It doesn't do anything remotely that would lead me to believe it's even close to starting....just cranks and cranks........and cranks.......and cranks some more.
You should unhook that cable and try and start it that way if the ignition cable hooked up to the battery does start it then you have elimated the sensor's, so you can save yourself the need for the scan tool. If it runs then you have a problem from your ignition to your computer.
Disconnecting the wire you speak of, and jumping it to the passenger side battery positive terminal will not achieve anything, other than being able to crank the starter over from inside the engine compartment, instead of physically turning the ignition key to the START position.
BTW, you may want to add FICM_SYNC and SYNC switching from NO at key-on/engine-off, to YES when you crank the engine over with the key, as your next list of PIDs to monitor, as well, when you get your hands on a scan tool.
And before you ask, FICM_SYNC switching from NO to YES, indicates the PCM and FICM are "shaking hands" so to speak. In another words, the FICM "knows" when to fire the injectors, at the point in which you see the YES PID appear.
And SYNC indicates the PCM is receiving CKP (crank sensor) and CMP (cam sensor) inputs.
What are the possibilities of the ICP V is less than .8V while cranking? Is it a simple new ICP install and go or something more involved?
If ICP volts does not reach 0.8 volts while cranking over with the key, you more likely have issues with ICP being insufficient. If it increases to 1.5 volts let's say, then you need to "hunt" elsewhere for the cause of your no-start issue (read my FICM_SYNC and SYNC post above, for expample).
I apologize for the 10,000 questions, but once I get back to the truck, I will be very limited to parts so I'm trying to cover all of the bases before I get back up here. Would it honestly matter if I tested the ICP V before I left to get an idea if it's good/high/low?
OK, I think I'm losing it....I know I saw the ICP testing procedure with a multimeter in the tech folder, but I can't find it. Anybody got a bead on it?
If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.82 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.