There are 2 sensors, the single wire sensor has an orange stripe....it's dark in color, brown maybe.

Ok, new issue. I broke the fuel cap trying to remove it. WTH?

 

My finger points to the sensor in question. You can see the other sensor below, that is the 2 wire sensor. These are between the turbo and the oil filter bowl.

 

OK--I gotcha. That's the oil pressure sender. The two wire is the oil temp sender.

Normally we think of IPR as being under the turbo at the back of the motor. Do you have a way to read ICP and IPR?

 

OK, thank you. The oil pressure sender wire is a bit frayed with about 1/4" of bare wire showing. I'm gonna wrap that back up before I get after the fuel filters today.

I have no way of reading the ICP or IPR voltages.

 

I got it scanned today and found these:

P1876
P1832
P1352
P1359
P1360

Where do I begin? The two 18xx codes are transfer case codes.

The 1352 and 1360 are ignition coil A primary and secondary circuit faults.

Any help fixing these codes would be greatly appreciated.

 

What instrument did you use to scan it?

 

Not sure what the guy used, but it was a local garage mechanic. I asked if I could borrow the scanner instead of towing my truck into town(30 minute drive at normal speed) and he didn't feel comfortable lending out a $7,000 machine.

 

I don't recognize the codes.

One thing that MAY have happened .. aftermarket filters can cause damage to the standpipe in the oil filter housing. Depending on the damage, you can have the same issue as w/ the aftermarket filter installed. HOWEVER, I do see that you now have pressure in the LPOP system (gauge indication anyway) - so SOME improvement has been made. You can still have an issue w/ the high pressure oil system pressure, or even could still have a FICM issue even though you repaired it. If a FICM has low voltage, then it needs to be repaired ... HOWEVER, a FICM w/ good voltage could still be bad.

Also, there is a no-start thread in the Tech folder that instructs on how to get voltages from the ICP sensor. This will determine if you are seeing sufficient pressure in the high pressure oil system. You will need to "tap into" the ICP wires for a voltage reading - a DVOM can be used (I think that a couple of sharp ended probes that could pierce the insulation would work .... without having to strip the wires back). You want to see over 0.82V (IIRC). There are multiple sources on the EXACT voltage - some say 0.8V, but I encountered one example where 0.8V did not allow a start but 0.84V did.

 

i have no crank, replaced 2 injectors, FICM, PCM, ICP sensore new starter cost me over $2500 in diagnostic time at Ford and still no answer why it will not crank so any help much apprecieated.

 

Mine cranks fine, just doesn't run.

I have an extra known good FICM and tried it with no start. I have to go home(6 hours away) tomorrow morning so any testing will have to wait until I get back to the cabin next weekend. I plan on purchasing a scangaugeII next week before I make the drive back up.

 

The scangauge will tell you the ICP (HPO pressure). That would be a huge help.

If you do not want to wait, a DVOM is pretty cheap and available, and your ICP sensor is very accessible .......

 

I've been reading that folder quite a bit....would unplugging the ICP and trying to start eliminate that as an issue?

 

I didn't recall seeing it - did you ever change the fuel filters?
Did you verify that the upper fuel filter bowl fills up quickly?

 

I was able to change the top filter and also verified fuel coming into the bowl. How quick should the bowl fill up? The key was on for 2 seconds and filled up more than halfway.

 

thats what they say the pcm will use a default value when ICP unplugged Id tryit