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Starts when cold, not when hot.

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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:53 PM
  #1  
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Starts when cold, not when hot.

83 F350 W/7.3 . Starts when cold but will not start when hot . (or operating temp). Almost like a timing problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:59 PM
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How many miles on it? Your ip my be getting weak
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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It sounds like a bad IP.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 05:56 AM
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x3 on IP, do this test(I've proved it to work):

Start her up, get her to operating temperature and then shut it off. pour cool/kinda cold water on the Injection pump and then try to start it again...if it starts, you got pinholes in the diaphram of the IP and it needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:11 AM
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The easier way to test for an internal hot IP problem is jumping power to the cold advance solenoid and then trying to start it! It should start right up and that means its an internal IP issue.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:15 AM
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that is true, but it safer to pour water, knowing my luck i would electrocute myself, my friends all do it too, the only thing we can do is wiring for lights....or a CB radio lol.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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Thanks for the idea. I'll give it a try.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
that is true, but it safer to pour water, knowing my luck i would electrocute myself, my friends all do it too, the only thing we can do is wiring for lights....or a CB radio lol.
How do you electrocute yourself with 12VDC? ROFL

Just a word of caution with the cold water method. I head that can make the damage worse depending on how much thermal shock is applied.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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trust me David...my buddy...well...yeah...he shocked the shi* out of himself when we were wiring in my rear backup lights. It was funny to watch him scream but then I did the exact same thing. Trust me....if there is anything to do with electrical...I can find a way to electrocute myself. It dont matter what kind of system, or what I do...it will happen haha....
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
trust me David...my buddy...well...yeah...he shocked the shi* out of himself when we were wiring in my rear backup lights. It was funny to watch him scream but then I did the exact same thing. Trust me....if there is anything to do with electrical...I can find a way to electrocute myself. It dont matter what kind of system, or what I do...it will happen haha....
Well, as Dirty Harry would say:

A man's got to know his limitations.


I was buzzed once by roughly 160VDC but lucky for me, it didn't quite reach my elbow. Got a tingle once from 12VDC, but that was in an open scrape so the skin was already broken allowing an easier path in.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
x3 on IP, do this test(I've proved it to work):

Start her up, get her to operating temperature and then shut it off. pour cool/kinda cold water on the Injection pump and then try to start it again...if it starts, you got pinholes in the diaphram of the IP and it needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
There is no diaphragm in the IP.
"Fuel enters the pump inlet under lift pump pressure from the fuel filter, where a vane type transfer pump further pressurizes it." An excellent explaination of how our pumps work can be found at: Oliver Diesel - Engines & Outdoors

I don't know why it works with the cold water, but I'll bet it has to do with the viscosity of the fuel.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by David85

Just a word of caution with the cold water method. I head that can make the damage worse depending on how much thermal shock is applied.
Do not use cold water, about a half a cup of tap water is usually enough when poured over the head of the pump.

Originally Posted by Marianna2003

I don't know why it works with the cold water, but I'll bet it has to do with the viscosity of the fuel.
It has nothing to do with viscosity of the fuel. As the head of the pump gets worn, it can't pump enough fuel at starting RPMs when hot, the water cools the head so that tolerances are tighter for a few seconds.
In another life I used to rebuild the Stanadyne pumps when they were used on early GM engines. The tolerances are so close in the hydraulic head of the pump that you can pull the rotor out and hold it in your hand for 5 seconds and it will not fit back in until the temps are equalized.
 
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