Removing turbo
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Texas
Removing turbo
i am currently removing my turbo to gain access to my donut gaskets.
i wondering is there a nifty little trick in getting the y pipe clamp off?
thats the only thing holding me up and its kicking my a$$
thanks for any help in advance
never mind,a cutting torch and a tow truck fix it.....closed
i wondering is there a nifty little trick in getting the y pipe clamp off?
thats the only thing holding me up and its kicking my a$$
thanks for any help in advance
never mind,a cutting torch and a tow truck fix it.....closed
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Texas
yes,it finally came off,replacing the donut gaskets till i can get the bellowed upgrade,and gutting the ebpv while i have it out.
thanks for the responses.
and while i have the turbo removed any other suggestions while i have it out?
thanks for the responses.
and while i have the turbo removed any other suggestions while i have it out?
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Texas
oh yeah,put about a half can on it last night,and another half can on the exhaust fitting right before i started...taking off y pipe now,coming off easy as pie....now to get to the underside bolts
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Carbondale, CO
I've seen some fuel line leak threads about the line that runs under a clamp near the passenger side valve cover. Some guys remove the clamp or protect the line.
UVCH shims/50 cent mod/re-torque rocker arm pedestal and injector hold down bolts won't get any easier than now.
UVCH shims/50 cent mod/re-torque rocker arm pedestal and injector hold down bolts won't get any easier than now.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2011
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From: Maine
Just gonna throw this out there real quick while it's on my mind, when you put the V-Band clamps back on, (Up/Down pipes) put some anti-sieze (Silver 1,800*F) on the inside so it won't be as bad next time.
And in my experience, when it comes time to put the turbo back in, uses some grease to hold the (new) O-rings in place, and position the turbo on the up-pipe first, get it aligned and the band on/fingertight. THEN bolt the turbo to the pedestal, then do the downpipe.
Hope that helps, I messed with the turbo/up pipe foir a coupel hours before I took the pedestal bolts out, had it on in 20 minutes af ther that.
Good luck!
And in my experience, when it comes time to put the turbo back in, uses some grease to hold the (new) O-rings in place, and position the turbo on the up-pipe first, get it aligned and the band on/fingertight. THEN bolt the turbo to the pedestal, then do the downpipe.
Hope that helps, I messed with the turbo/up pipe foir a coupel hours before I took the pedestal bolts out, had it on in 20 minutes af ther that.
Good luck!
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Texas
thanks everyone for the input,its all been taken into account
i was very happy to find that after 258k there was no erosion on the up pipes
i mean none at all,some how the dounut took all the erosion on the inside
i put the fel pro 8194 on and love how much thicker they are
and now i have my boost back!!!!! thanks again everyone!!
i was very happy to find that after 258k there was no erosion on the up pipes
i mean none at all,some how the dounut took all the erosion on the inside
i put the fel pro 8194 on and love how much thicker they are
and now i have my boost back!!!!! thanks again everyone!!
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