Removing turbo
Thread Starter
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9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
Removing turbo
How hard is it? I am taking the spider off in the next couple weeks, and am considering deleting the EBPV as well. Those who have done so, is it worth it? One less thing to leak right? Another thing to consider is my uppies are leaking, but I dont want to replace them just yet. Would removing the turbo and replacing it make the leak worse?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If your remove the turbo, you might as well replace the donut gaskets while you're there. You can get the thicker felpro gaskets for a small block chevy for just a couple of dollars each at your local parts store. Or you could just unplug the EBP sensor at the base of the pedestal to solve the leak issue.
As for difficulty in removing it, only two bolts hold it on, so they are easy. If it's never been off before, you'll have to convince the clamp between the turbo and up pipe collector to come loose. Removing the nut on the clamp is easy, but the clamp will be seized in place. A screwdriver and hammer usually are required to convince it to come loose.
As for difficulty in removing it, only two bolts hold it on, so they are easy. If it's never been off before, you'll have to convince the clamp between the turbo and up pipe collector to come loose. Removing the nut on the clamp is easy, but the clamp will be seized in place. A screwdriver and hammer usually are required to convince it to come loose.
Thread Starter
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9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
If your remove the turbo, you might as well replace the donut gaskets while you're there. You can get the thicker felpro gaskets for a small block chevy for just a couple of dollars each at your local parts store. Or you could just unplug the EBP sensor at the base of the pedestal to solve the leak issue.
As for difficulty in removing it, only two bolts hold it on, so they are easy. If it's never been off before, you'll have to convince the clamp between the turbo and up pipe collector to come loose. Removing the nut on the clamp is easy, but the clamp will be seized in place. A screwdriver and hammer usually are required to convince it to come loose.
As for difficulty in removing it, only two bolts hold it on, so they are easy. If it's never been off before, you'll have to convince the clamp between the turbo and up pipe collector to come loose. Removing the nut on the clamp is easy, but the clamp will be seized in place. A screwdriver and hammer usually are required to convince it to come loose.
As for the clamp, it has been off before, I was just curious on clearances pulling the turbo out and stuff.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If the clamps been off before, and you don't have too much of an issue lining the turbo and the collector up, then pull the turbo while you're there.
I think a big part of the issue with the replacement gaskets is that the up pipes themselves get an indention in them, are worn, and really should be replaced too. Felpro probably isn't a permanent solution, but it's a cheap band aid if you're that far in and have leaks already.
I think a big part of the issue with the replacement gaskets is that the up pipes themselves get an indention in them, are worn, and really should be replaced too. Felpro probably isn't a permanent solution, but it's a cheap band aid if you're that far in and have leaks already.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
Removing the turbo is pretty easy but putting it back can be a challenge. You have to make yourself comfortable so you can lower it down on the pedistal carefully without messing up the o rings. When trying to line up the collector it makes things easier if you loosen the up pipes first at the manifolds.
A top side creeper is real nice for this job.
A top side creeper is real nice for this job.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
I would pick up an extra clamp for the back of the turbo just in case you break it. Mine was really stuck on there and almost broke trying to remove it. Also if you haven't done so its a good idea to look at the passenger side fuel line. Release the p clamp and slip a piece of rubber hose over it then re clamp.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
I'm about to pull my turbo as well. Rebuilding it and doing felpro donuts, too. Looking forward to it! Got my passenger fuel line ready, too.
Also gonna re-torque rockers and injectors while I'm in there.
Also gonna re-torque rockers and injectors while I'm in there.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
I swapped my turbo in my work parking lot. Took me an hour to get it off because that vband clamp was a pain. Might want to get a spare, because you're gonna need a lot of anger to get it off. I didn't think I was going to break mine, I had a long screwdriver and a pry bar and big hammer.
Get all the orings and donut gaskets and do a wicked wheel if you don't have one already.
When you do donuts, take the sliding flange (and the y) and use a belt sander to clean up the surface that meet the turbo y. Mine was very rusty and I didn't want that to stop me from tightening the donuts enough.
Have fun
Get all the orings and donut gaskets and do a wicked wheel if you don't have one already.
When you do donuts, take the sliding flange (and the y) and use a belt sander to clean up the surface that meet the turbo y. Mine was very rusty and I didn't want that to stop me from tightening the donuts enough.
Have fun
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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Yo Spooner, when your ready, and your down to travel to Elsinore bud, hit me up. I've pulled the turbo a few times, removed/plugged the pedestal and did a few Felpros as well... If the pipes are that far gone, we can cut'm, flip them and reweld them.
If the pipes are that far gone, we can cut'm, flip them and reweld them.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 967
Likes: 7
From: coquitlam,BC
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PREMIUM SPONSOR
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 750
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From: Oakdale, CA
It is really easy to remove and install. Like mentioned above, a flat screw driver and hammer may help to get the clamp off of the back.
The EBPV delete is also cheap and easy. I did it just for piece of mind.
I would not recommend using the Felpro 8194 gaskets. Get the Victor Reinz F17250 gaskets instead. They are a graphite like material that will crush a lot easier. The Felpro gaskets can be a pain to crush.
The EBPV delete is also cheap and easy. I did it just for piece of mind.
I would not recommend using the Felpro 8194 gaskets. Get the Victor Reinz F17250 gaskets instead. They are a graphite like material that will crush a lot easier. The Felpro gaskets can be a pain to crush.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,246
Likes: 761
From: Houston, Texas
Through all these posts, the one thing that is missing is PB Blaster.
Having done this several times and more recently after installing a 38R, it's really not all that hard to R&R the turbo.
Assuming you've pulled the intercooler pipes, spider, and intake hoses, all you really need to do is spray the rear clamp (connects to the collector pipe) with PB Blaster and walk away for 15-20 minutes or so. If you haven't already done so, you can get the two 14 mm bolts holding the turbo down off while the PB Blaster is doing it's thing.
Then grab a 3/8 drive 11 mm socket and loosen the clamp. You may have to spray it again with some PB Blaster and maybe pry at it with a flat blade screwdriver, but it'll come right off without breaking anything.
Having done this several times and more recently after installing a 38R, it's really not all that hard to R&R the turbo.
Assuming you've pulled the intercooler pipes, spider, and intake hoses, all you really need to do is spray the rear clamp (connects to the collector pipe) with PB Blaster and walk away for 15-20 minutes or so. If you haven't already done so, you can get the two 14 mm bolts holding the turbo down off while the PB Blaster is doing it's thing.
Then grab a 3/8 drive 11 mm socket and loosen the clamp. You may have to spray it again with some PB Blaster and maybe pry at it with a flat blade screwdriver, but it'll come right off without breaking anything.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
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From: Central Coast of CA
It's a thick, dense foam pad that really takes care of protrusions like the hood latch.
Pete can attest to how much it saves the body from pain!
Stewart