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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Flathead Restorable?

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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Flathead Restorable?

Got a 1950 F-1 pickup. It was a service truck and had been sitting in a field for years. Popped open the flathead V8 for a look. It was locked up so I knew it wouldn't be pretty. I'm not sure if it is restorable. I'll have to find a machinist versed in flatheads to find out. What do you think by looking at the pictures?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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Believe it or not, I've seen worse brought back to life.

I would soak everything in penetrating oil, let it sit, then finish pulling it apart. Then you can decide if it's worth restoration.

Welcome to the flathead community.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Douse it good with Marvel Mystery oil and see if it spins after a few days.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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What does the bottom end look like?

Start scraping on the deck surface, see if there are any obvious cracks. No question you have your work cut out for you, but if the bottom end is all rusty, it may not be worth it.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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Thats a beautiful piece of machinery
 
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Hey guys I was just thinking, would taking a small wire brush and strategically/tediously going around the valves, head mounting surface, etc. removing surface rust work? Then trying to break up that rust down in the cylinders and vacuuming it out THEN adding the oil/penetrant work?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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oil first then let it sit for a few days then oil again. in my opinion. You should aslo take my user name into consideration.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by reed1951
Hey guys I was just thinking, would taking a small wire brush and strategically/tediously going around the valves, head mounting surface, etc. removing surface rust work? Then trying to break up that rust down in the cylinders and vacuuming it out THEN adding the oil/penetrant work?
Short of hot-tanking it, that's the best plan. You wouldn't want to spin it with all that junk on it. Best to free up all the valves first, too.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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Just take it all apart. Getting the crank to spin doesn't tell you anything. It's not like you are going to put the heads back on and run it like that anyway.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 38 coupe
Just take it all apart. Getting the crank to spin doesn't tell you anything. It's not like you are going to put the heads back on and run it like that anyway.
Agreed. Those rusty cylinder walls won't let it move anyway, IMO.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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I'm going to put the solvent on and pop the bottom end open on it eventually. I'm suspicious that there will not be enough metal left to make rebuilding it viable. I don't want to spend a forture on it. The rest of the truck is going to take a lot of work to make roadworthy. If I can't move foward with the flathead, what is a good replacement engine to look for? I'd like to leave it as a manual shift truck. Also concerned with the rear end gearing. Is it more economical to look for another rear end (and if so, which one) or is there an add-on overdrive that would work better? Thanks Ford enthusiasts.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Check this out, lots of good info here....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-how-tos.html
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Flatties can be bored out as much as 1/8" on a good block, I wouldn't worry about the cylinders. The deck thickness and potentially cracks are the fears there. Plus just the cost if the bottom end is real rusty.

A Y-block would be a good replacement!
 
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