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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #31  
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What was your vc9 concentration and how long was it in there? Was the thermostat pulled and run on high idle for at least an hour? It may need a fairly strong concentration to break up hard water deposits.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #32  
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Just how much does a new rad cost at Rock Auto or like discounter?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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I drove it for an hour,between 1500-3000 rpm.got it to 205*.put two quarts in it.the restore and vc9 did a good job of breaking it up,the problem is that the radiator keeps feeding it to my whole cooling system.after flushing the block and oil cooler I get nothing but clean water out of them.once I get to the radiator I get these flakes......all day long.called a shop and they won't clean it because of the plastic tanks.need to invent something that'll disolve it,instead of breaking it up.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Just how much does a new rad cost at Rock Auto or like discounter?
was quoted 225 + tax.now comes the " honey,need another 300 for the truck".right after putting 325 into a cooler and other things.I will be flushing yearly when I get it squared away.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #35  
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Try giving a radiator shop a call and see if it is possible to have the existing one cleaned out? Just a thought. If not, new would be the best bet.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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The only instance I can think of when you are better off to use chemical cleaners vs. replacing is when you are dealing with a commercial boiler which cost $$$$$$ to replace.

The chemical cleaning costs can way exceed your cost of a new rad.

FYI, VC-9 is something like $60 a bottle.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #37  
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If it's hard water scale/minerals try some C.L.R.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
If it's hard water scale/minerals try some C.L.R.

NO, NO, NO!

You risk severe damage to the rest of the system.


Component CAS# OSHA HAZARD % by Weight
1. Water 7732-18-5 NO 70-81
2. Lactic Acid 79-33-4 YES 15-20
3. Gluconic Acid 526-95-4 N0 2-4
4. Lauramine Oxide 1643-20-5 N0 1-4
5. Propylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether 5131-66-8 YES 1-2


http://www.jelmar.com/msds/CLR_MSDS_eng.pdf




How will this stuff react with an Iron block, with Aluminium components, bronze bearings, EPDM rubber hoses, coolant, and other cleaners?


I would say... too risky to find out.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:08 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
NO, NO, NO!

You risk severe damage to the rest of the system.
http://www.jelmar.com/msds/CLR_MSDS_eng.pdf
How will this stuff react with an Iron block, with Aluminium components, bronze bearings, EPDM rubber hoses, coolant, and other cleaners?


I would say... too risky to find out.
by the MSDS--wear rubber gloves for protection and as far as iron, aluminum, bronze......it's safe to clean coffee pots, plumbing fixtures (mostly brass and iron), and a plethora of other things. Just don't spill it on concrete--LOL
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #40  
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My duty chemists have gone home for the day....

I think, for $225 and taxes, that is pretty cheap to not find out the possible reactions with a rusted block, possibly with hydrocarbon contaminants, casting sand (silicates), and a coating on the whole mess (from the coolant) that is suppose to protect it.

You are asking a question that needs a coolant chemist / engineer to answer.


------------------------


Just a note as to what hard water can do.... a place that I am at that have unusually hard water.

Brand new kettle ... 2 or 3 loads of water boiling in it results in about 1/2mm of scale on the pot.

The deposit builds to 2 to 3mm thick... chunks that can be broken and pulled out.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by steelhead2
I drove it for an hour,between 1500-3000 rpm.got it to 205*.put two quarts in it.the restore and vc9 did a good job of breaking it up,the problem is that the radiator keeps feeding it to my whole cooling system.after flushing the block and oil cooler I get nothing but clean water out of them.once I get to the radiator I get these flakes......all day long.called a shop and they won't clean it because of the plastic tanks.need to invent something that'll disolve it,instead of breaking it up.
Was the thermostat pulled out? If the thermostat was not removed, you won't get high flow through the radiator, so the block will be well cleaned, radiator not so much. I would do longer than 1 hour, at least two with a strong concentration.

Originally Posted by gearloose1
The only instance I can think of when you are better off to use chemical cleaners vs. replacing is when you are dealing with a commercial boiler which cost $$$$$$ to replace.

The chemical cleaning costs can way exceed your cost of a new rad.

FYI, VC-9 is something like $60 a bottle.
Where did you get that??? Last I checked, it was $26.50/qt online, which is ridiculous. Restore Plus is pretty much the same thing and is about $28/gallon. I would run a full gallon of Restore Plus, with the thermostat removed, on high idle for at least an hour.

Originally Posted by npccpartsman
If it's hard water scale/minerals try some C.L.R.
I was thinking that as well, but wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:23 PM
  #42  
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Well.....it doesn't react with rubber or plastic, it cleans iron, aluminum, brass, and copper, and it dissolves mineral scale. What else is in there IF you've already flushed the system with nothing but water? I can't think of anything that's not metal or rubber
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #43  
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Be my guest... try it out and let us know.

There is quite a bit more than metal and rubber in the innards.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:35 PM
  #44  
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CLR is mostly an acidic solution, similar to Restore Plus and vc9. I don't think it would be harmful, but I also don't think it would accomplish anything a strong solution of the other two wouldn't.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Be my guest... try it out and let us know.

There is quite a bit more than metal and rubber in the innards.
Not that the cooling system has direct contact with. Metal, plastic, and rubber, that's about it.
 
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