When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Help! Needed 4 wheel drive today, doesn't work. 96 f-150 6 cyl. with automatic hubs. Shift to 4H, dash light comes on saying 4x4. Any suggestions on whats wrong?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Dec-02 AT 11:47 AM (EST)]your hubs are not locking i would go buy a new set of maual hubs and replace the autos. looking at near 300 bucks for a set of new autos and closer to 60 bucks for a set of maunals....... just to make sure you do have the shifter on the floor right?
Yes, shifter is on the floor.
What does it cost to have this done at the dealer? Is this an easy job to replace the auto hubs with manual hubs? Are the automatic hubs controlled by vacuum or electrical?
it is a pretty easy swap.. there are mechanicly controled when your front axle shaft turns it slips them in gear with a spring mechanism, and when you take it out of 4 wheel drive and back up they disengage.
well i personally would do it my self i did my dads way back when and if i remember it only takes 30min or so. you have the three bolts one the outer edge of the hub take it out and slap some grease in on the end of the axle shaft and install the new manual locking hubs.
yo,
Local Ford dealers won't swap to manual hubs bec. they are not "factory" equipt. on our 96 bronco...so we did it ourselves a few yrs ago.
btw, Ford dealer will prob charge $250.00 per side to replace w/oem auto hubs. that is PER side.
A local mechanic will prob make the change to man. hubs for $250.00, incl the hubs.
I have a few hub swap articles by other FTE pals in my Gallery if you choose to diy.
Also Steve has a nice article too
I don't have his site bkmarked yet tho.
A friend of mine has a '96 F350 4x4....He had a problem with one of his auto hubs a couple weeks ago...we pulled them off and you could see the left one was worn a LOT more than the right...it was actually engaging the axle while he drove down the road. He called the local dealer...they had hubs for $130.00 each...we thought it would be cheaper to go with manuals..WRONG...The prices we were quoted from the local parts houses was around 150.00 for the hubs(Milemarker, Warn), plus another 50-60 bucks for a conversion kit. Since he only needed the one hub he decided he could only afford the auto hub to replace the bad one... Not sure if there's a difference between the auto hubs for the TTB axles or the solid ones...he has a solid axle in the front....
Just replaced my auto hubs with maual ones, the cost was 80.00 dollars for the Warn premium hubs, and they came with a great set of instructions. I have a 1993 F150 4x4 the F350 might be more. I've found tha most of the discount parts stores in my area have competive prices with the mail order ones, sometimes cheaper after you include shipping and handling.:-X12
YES, the heavy duty hubs on the heavey 3/4 ton and 1 ton are much more expensive. I had to do the swap on mine and also paid the $40 for the conversion kit, which consists of only the old style axle nuts, and locking plates, but mine worked fine with out them so I didn't have to swap them over anyway.
http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos...&smi=1&a=66946
The '96 is slightly different from the '93 in these pics - the '93 DOESN'T require the "conversion kit" (just 2 sets of: 2 nuts & a lock plate), but the '96 DOES need it. The 3-bolt cap tells you it needs the "kit" and it also means it's a little harder to get the first big outer retaining ring out that's in the TINY groove between the HUB and the aluminum HUB LOCK BODY as soon as you pull the cap off. Then you pull EVERYTHING out down to the wierd bearing nut, which you loosen with a hammer & screwdriver (you won't be reusing it) and spin out by hand.
At this point, you COULD put the new parts in, but if you pull the hub, you'll find VERY little grease (if any) between the wheel bearings, so now's a good time to repack or replace both bearings and replace the wheel seal (which you should do every time you pull the hub off the spindle).
To reinstall the bearing nuts & hub locks, just follow the directions in Haynes for the older trucks/Broncos with manual hubs.
I guess what I'm really trying to find out, is it an easy job for the amatuer do-it yourselfer who knows enough to be dangerous? What would a dealer charge to replace automatics or repair? Is there a big advantage with manual hubs over automatics?