Has anybody had to replace the cable before? Mine broke right at the pedal and was wondering if its a hard job to get done. Thanks in advance.

 

Had the dealer do my 99 and its real tight. Pedal only go down one click. If you do this please post where the adjusters at. I can't find where to adjust mine. I don't like my pedal where it is and I know if I keep pushing on the pedal that hard I will break it again.
If yours is a stick there is a recall on them, it don't cover automatics. Good luck, Chet

 

The adjustment is on the back of the rear hubs. Below the axle tube is a hole with a black rubber plug in it. Remove the plug and use a brake spoon (or screwdriver) to adjust the star adjuster. It's a "drum in hat" design. The parking brake is a drum brake inside the rotor. It adjusts just like a regular drum brake, just doesn't adjust automatically.

 

i did mine...wasnt a hard job. mine broke off at the piece coming up thru the floor board. a little tricky alone...getting a wire thru the floor and grabbing it inside...but wasnt anything i wouldnt want to do again...good luck

 

I did that adjustment. It still leaves the pedal hard with not much slack. I thought there was an adjustment on the e-brake pedal for the cable but can't see it. Thanks for the suggestion though its appreciated.
Chet

 

No other adjustments that I'm aware of...

Take the rotors off and clean/lube adjusters as req'd, then adjust the e-brake while you can see it.

I have been using dielectric grease for caliper lube in applications like this... Its a high-temp silicone-based grease and tends to resist 'drying out' the way caliper grease and anti-seize do.

 

This isn't tough to do but it does really help to have a second set of hands....
On your old cable, using a light, take a look at the bracket that the cable goes through just above the floor board inside the cab. You will see what looks like a little plastic ring at the end of the sleeve. Cut it, pry it off whatever but just remove it. This will allow you to back out the main body of the cable. The other end of the sleeve will have the same thing on the bracket under the truck on the frame rail.
Push the pedal all the way down and you will be able to remove the other end of the cable from the pedal assembly.

Feed the new cable up through the floorboard into the cab first. This is where the other hands help... As the sleeve of the new cable is being pushed up from under the truck, you will need to guide the top part of the sleeve and cable through the inside bracket. **You may have to file the edges of the little nub on the new cable to get it through the hole in the bracket. It is a tight fit.** It will also help to have that end of the cable all the way down as you are feeding it through the floor and bracket. Once it is almost all the way in just push hard from the bottom to get it to slip past that plastic ring and it will clip in place.

Now feed the other end of the cable sleeve through a hole in a body mount and into the bracket on the frame rail and push till it clips into place. The new cable sleeve is stiff and will argue a little but it will bend enough to make it back into the same route.

Now back to the old cable....You will see what looks like a splice at the end of the cable. This is actually a sleeve that connects the primary cable to the intermediate cable. It works like the little links on a pull chain for a lamp. Using pliers and a screwdriver, spread the front end of the "link" just a little. This will allow you to push and lift the old cable out.
Follow the imtermediate cable back along the frame where it connects to a bracket that attaches it to the two cables that split it up to each wheel. This disconnects real easy. You will see once you get to it.

Now back to the second pair of hands....
Have the cable pushed through the sleeve UP into the cab slowly. It will go up behind the pedal assembly so while using a flashlight, you will see it appear behind and above the pedal assembly. Once you see where it shows up at, using a thin wire or twine, (I used baling twine from our hay bales), make a small loop and slide it over the top and to the back of the assembly. Have the cable pushed up through the loop so that you can pull it over the top and towards you with the twine. Then you can connnect the pedal end of the cable and have the slack pulled back out. Watch closely as the slack is taken out to make sure it goes into the groove of the cable guide on the assembly.

Back under the truck....
Put the new cable into the "link" and pull to seat it then using the pliers, squeeze the "link" closed again.

Now reconnect the intermediate cable to the two leading to the rear wheels.
Connect the top or bottom first, then using the bracket as leverage, you can pull the other end of the bracket back far enough to attach the second rear cable.

Press the pedal down all the way once and you will hear & feel a "pop". This is just seating the cable...

Adjust as needed at the rear wheels. Make sure you adjust evenly.

 

Lot more to it then I though. Thanks, mine is already installed so I guess there is no way to make more slack with out changing cables. The adjustment at the wheel dosen't do it. Thanks, Chet

 

Any info/link on this matter, brother...dealership thinks i'm talking outta my ****.

 

It's not hard, its just a pain in the ***.

Looks like the guys above have the right info.

I pulled the assembly out though and did it on the bench.

I attached the new cable to the pedal then slid the pedal down though the floor, hooked everything up, then bolted it in place.

Getting the cable in the pedal correctly is the hardest part.

 

Yeah, i already installed the cable, easier than thought, but was curious to the "recall"...i wanted my money back, but for the 15 buks it cost for cable, aint worth the hassle of removing it.