i got 4.3ohms resistance. is that good or bad?

 

Little high but might be an error in your meter.

Your reference voltage tested a little high too at 5.05v, again perhaps just a slight error in meter?

Resistance "ground" to "signal wire" should be 3.0 to 4.0k, throttle fully closed (harness connector removed naturally).

Slowly open throttle rise to full open = 350ohms, should note smooth change throughout range.

You replaced the tps, odds you got a bad one gotta be slim. Unless you bought a cheap one at one of them discount auto part super stores.

If not you know you bought a quality one I'd say its time to look to issues in the trucks tps circuit for a cause of the problem.

Frayed, burnt or pinched wire between it and the computer or just a simple corroded connection at either end for example.

Possible to get all the correct readings at the tps but if the computer doesn't get the same value at its end, you'll have a problem with a old or new "good" tps.

 

this morning i took it for a ride and it ran fine no stahing/hesitation or cel-till i backed in my driveway then the cel came on. i un hooked the battery and i will pull the codes again in a little while. mabey it was a loose connector or something. cel might have been my o2 sensor because the wires were burnt but i think i fixed that now. i will post in a little my results hopefully it is fixed.

 

i am still getting code 122 and the cel is on all the time again-now where do i look?

 

Well I'd test the circuit from the tps to the computer, the wire to " TP" (pin 47) on the computer.

Loosen the center bolt backing the harness connector off the computer, locate pin 47 and test for continuity between the wire on pin 47 there and up right at the tps. If you get nothing, no continuity you found the problem. Keep in mind the meter could read continuity but still have a problem there, unlikely but possible.

I'm omitting wire colors as yours seams to be different then mine and the manual I have here. Find pin 47 and you'll know your wire color code of the wire you want to test from both ends.

For computer harness connector pinout see>Ford Fuel Injection » EEC Computers scroll down to "EEC-IV" and you'll see pin locations in relation to the connector on the computer. Pins are numbered 1 to 60.

If you get continuity then check it for voltage right at the computer connector, set it up so you can back probe pin 47 with the harness connector back on the computer. Remove connectors back cover, insert a paper clip or similar into pin 47 so you have a handy connection point to probe.
I'd doubt it, unless your probes are really short on that meter, if you need to add a little wire to one of your meter probes to reach between them for testing do so just make sure you have solid connections.

Once you have that all set up (a helper to handle one of the probes for you might make it easier), turn the key on test for 0.05v to 1.0v "throttle closed" at pin 47 on the computer. If its fails lower, under 0.05v and actually lower then 0.9v you have a problem in the wire even though it does show some continuity. Run a new wire or trace the existing one searching for damage, myself I'd just run a new wire soldering connections.

You know its working up at the tps, you have the required .9-4.21v throttle there closed to full open, those couple tests will tell you if the computer receives it via that wire or not.

If it passes the test right at the computer harness connector, you get that same .9-4.21v reading at pin 47 you get up at the TPS, I'd suggest the computer itself is in question and should be looked into.

 

ok thanks for the great info-i dont think i will be able to do any thing till next weekend tough. i will get to it asap-and post the results-again thanks for all your paitence in working me trough this allot of great info