OK... after the installation of a new GTP38 and a F6 DP Tuner I cant get the Check Engine Light to go off... but my bigger concern is the fact that I cant get it to boost more than 12 PSI in stock mode and 23 in 140 performance. I have to be misisng something here. I have checked all connections. IC pipes, exhaust collector clamp, exhaust outlet, compressor discharge clamp. I alos installed a new set of bellowed Up pipes and all connections are good and sound there also.

I also did the follwoing mods at the same time:

Riff Raff HPx
Riff Raff FRx
S&B Intake
Foil Delete
GTP38 Turbo w/ high flow outlet
Non-EGBV Pedestal
AFE Intake
4" Exhaust
DP Tuner F6
Riff Raff IC Boot Kit
Autometer triple gauge pillar
Riff Raff Intake Plenum Inserts
HyTec Rear Diff Cover
John Woods Valve Body
IAH Delete

I finished this all this Saturday (15 hour day), only to end up with this mystery!!!

Question: What purpose do the green and red vacuum hoses serve? I know that the red goes to the waste gate, but what does the green one do?

Any help would be most appreciated... im ready to introduce my 7.3L to a .50 caliber slug.

BTW: Special thanks to Clay at Riff Raff. I called in and ordered the parts above on Wed evening and he had them to me by Friday!!! Now thats customer service!!!!

Thanks!!!!

 

Did you check your MAP line? Do you have any way to check codes? Does light always stay on or only come on under heavy throttle? Did you fix the trans command issue?

 

Clay,
I dont have the tools to check codes as of now. The MAP line is good and the light stays on all the time. TransCommand issue is resolved. I am pulling the ECM to triple check the connections per DP. I retightened all the clamps in the system including the collector. The only thing I found out of place was where the green vacuum line goes into the intake boot was blocked by the CCV delete insert. Not sure if this would amount to anything.

Thoughts?

 

How many miles have you put on since all the mods were done?, I'm just stabbing but maybe low boost from air in the lines after the frx and hpx..

 

Good Call! Less than 10 probably, just test runs around the corner and back. Here is the good news, I pulled out the tuner and reinstalled it and the check engine light is off now and building full boost!!!

Bad news.... When I did the foil delete I had the IC tubes powdercoated black and they look awesome!! Well... they coated the inside too and guess what? due to the heat and pressure the coating on the inside is coming off!! CRAP!!! I romped on it during this last test run and blew the IC tube off the compressor outlet.... Im guessing I have an IC full of powdercoating!!!! Such BS. Sooo.. now I have to get the powder coating out of the IC tubes and pull the Cooler to try to clean in out.... actually screw it, I'm gonna replace it!!! Can anybody give me some recommendations on an IC?

Live and learn boys!!! (who would have thought?)

PS: Does aircraft paint stripper take of powdercoating?

 

Ewww... Yuck. That sux.

 

So seeing how I have to deal with the IC tubes and the powder coating inside anyway... does anyone have an opinion of Banks CAC? Since it comes with new IC tubes that problem would be solved and I would also be starting off with a new CAC rather than dealing with this one. I will still have it cleaned up and serviced before offering it to the IDI guys.

SO.... Is the Banks Technicooler a go or no-go?

Thanks!!

 

The Banks Technicooler is alot of money for what you are trying to accomplish. I have brand new tubes that I can powdercoat properly for you for about $190 and you could get a Mishimoto I/C. Here are some options for you if you choose to do that.

Riffraff Diesel: Intercoolers