Offenhauser C accelerator cable bracket
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Offenhauser C accelerator cable bracket
Well, I worked up the nerve to start swapping the stock intake/ehaust manifolds on the 300. I bolted on a set of, EFI manifolds, an Offy C, and a Holley 390. 
I hope I got the Exhaust Manifolds lined up right.
Im stuck on the accelerator cable bracket? Im sure Im going to have to make one somehow? Im just not sure where to start. I tried the search button, but Im only finding stuff for the DP.
Anyone have a pic. or advise on where I should start?
Thanks
I hope I got the Exhaust Manifolds lined up right.
Im stuck on the accelerator cable bracket? Im sure Im going to have to make one somehow? Im just not sure where to start. I tried the search button, but Im only finding stuff for the DP.
Anyone have a pic. or advise on where I should start?
Thanks
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From: Boise, Idaho
There's a lot of solutions, including some that are made for the carb. But here's the bottom end of the solutions. I'm not recommending it, because it's certainly not the best, but it's worked for me for a few years until I can get a good one.
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BTW, Thanks for all your help. My favs are full of info you have posted here! You cant believe how helpful that info has been!
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I see your running the DP also. looks like fmc400 Is too. Im having a hard time finding a pic of the Offy C bracket.
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Nice, where did you get that!
I think that would work on my holley.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Earth
No worries with the Holley, except maybe the kickdown rod if you have a C6. Lokar makes a kickdown cable kit that works well, too.
You can get them anywhere, Amazon, Summit...
Is that a four-hole or open spacer? Mine runs a lot better with the four-hole than it did with an open spacer, fwiw.
You can get them anywhere, Amazon, Summit...
Is that a four-hole or open spacer? Mine runs a lot better with the four-hole than it did with an open spacer, fwiw.
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No worries with the Holley, except maybe the kickdown rod if you have a C6. Lokar makes a kickdown cable kit that works well, too.
You can get them anywhere, Amazon, Summit...
Is that a four-hole or open spacer? Mine runs a lot better with the four-hole than it did with an open spacer, fwiw.
You can get them anywhere, Amazon, Summit...
Is that a four-hole or open spacer? Mine runs a lot better with the four-hole than it did with an open spacer, fwiw.
I found the Lokar bracket at Jegs! It worked great.
That adapter in the picture has the 4 holes. I bought a heated spacer but, its not as thick as the spacer in the picture and, the 4 (port) holes are a bit smaller. Not sure if I can use it or not.
This little project has turned into a little more than I had origanal thought.
Its running but not very good. I still need some exhaust work done. Also need to install a tach. and then I will try to tune this thing?
Here is the bracket installed.
Thanks again!
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From: Earth
My next bit of advice would be to check for vacuum leaks - everywhere. Unplug and cap all the vacuum ports on the carb/manifold and see how it runs. If it's better, then re-install the vacuum lines one at a time and see which one makes it run worse and work from the carb/manifold back to find the leak.
Or take a hand vacuum pump and draw a vacuum on all the vacuum lines to see if any leak/bleed down.
Ford trucks are rather known for the A/C vacuum lines (they run from the vacuum canister on the passenger side through a molded plastic plug in the A/C plenum box at the firewall) deteriorating and leaking. Then at the brake booster. On mine the vacuum advance canister was leaking as well.
Also, try either advancing the timing or running the vacuum advance off a manifold vacuum port rather than the ported vacuum.
Plumbing heat to the bottom of the manifold helped mine a bunch, too. Had a local welder fab an adapter for my OffyC out of two elbows I bought and some 1/4" aluminum plate and sealed it in place with RTV:
Or take a hand vacuum pump and draw a vacuum on all the vacuum lines to see if any leak/bleed down.
Ford trucks are rather known for the A/C vacuum lines (they run from the vacuum canister on the passenger side through a molded plastic plug in the A/C plenum box at the firewall) deteriorating and leaking. Then at the brake booster. On mine the vacuum advance canister was leaking as well.
Also, try either advancing the timing or running the vacuum advance off a manifold vacuum port rather than the ported vacuum.
Plumbing heat to the bottom of the manifold helped mine a bunch, too. Had a local welder fab an adapter for my OffyC out of two elbows I bought and some 1/4" aluminum plate and sealed it in place with RTV:
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My next bit of advice would be to check for vacuum leaks - everywhere. Unplug and cap all the vacuum ports on the carb/manifold and see how it runs. If it's better, then re-install the vacuum lines one at a time and see which one makes it run worse and work from the carb/manifold back to find the leak.
Or take a hand vacuum pump and draw a vacuum on all the vacuum lines to see if any leak/bleed down.
Ford trucks are rather known for the A/C vacuum lines (they run from the vacuum canister on the passenger side through a molded plastic plug in the A/C plenum box at the firewall) deteriorating and leaking. Then at the brake booster. On mine the vacuum advance canister was leaking as well.
Also, try either advancing the timing or running the vacuum advance off a manifold vacuum port rather than the ported vacuum.
Or take a hand vacuum pump and draw a vacuum on all the vacuum lines to see if any leak/bleed down.
Ford trucks are rather known for the A/C vacuum lines (they run from the vacuum canister on the passenger side through a molded plastic plug in the A/C plenum box at the firewall) deteriorating and leaking. Then at the brake booster. On mine the vacuum advance canister was leaking as well.
Also, try either advancing the timing or running the vacuum advance off a manifold vacuum port rather than the ported vacuum.
With everything plugged, it idles pretty good. But, if I connect the vacuum advance, it idles way to fast. I sure hope its just the canister leaking. The brake booster didnt change the idle much either way. Everything else is plugged.
Its been warm here lately, 80-90s. Didnt think it would effect anything yet?
Pics of the spacers.
Oh and the reason the project has been on hold Picture!!
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