1982 Ford F150 transmission kick down linkage
#1
1982 Ford F150 transmission kick down linkage
Howdy,
I am new to this forum and a first time poster.
Last summer, I started a project of replacing my 4.9 300 inline 6 with a "new old stock" 4.9 300 inline 6 in my 1982 Ford F150. The “new old stock” engine was built by ford in 1992 and I am pretty sure it was made for fuel injection.
Everything that is on the engine is for a 1982 (not 1992) fuel pump, carburetor, throttle cable, manifolds, etc... I have the engine in and it runs great. However, I never thought about until now but I have noticed that the transmission doesn't kick down, on hills, etc...I haven’t drove it much but it bogs down on hills.
I have a new carter single barrel (hot air choke) carburetor from O'Reillys on it. The transmission kick down linkage is mounted to the intake manifold and I see where a bolt screws in and out (see pictures) however it is nowhere close to hitting the throttle linkage in the carburetor to "kick it down". Am I using the wrong carburetor, it was the replacement part from O'Reillys? Is it because I am using a 1982 carburetor on a 1992 engine? Is there a universal bracket sold that will link the kick down and throttle cable for a single barrel? I have been racking my brain trying to connect the transmission kick down to the carburetor to ensure that the transmission kicks down.
Would not having the kick down connected cause bogging down on hills? I think so.
In addition, there is something up with my throttle cable (as can be seen from the pictures) it doesn’t stay on correctly and seems to not be the correct length. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Respectfully,
-Larg3n
I am new to this forum and a first time poster.
Last summer, I started a project of replacing my 4.9 300 inline 6 with a "new old stock" 4.9 300 inline 6 in my 1982 Ford F150. The “new old stock” engine was built by ford in 1992 and I am pretty sure it was made for fuel injection.
Everything that is on the engine is for a 1982 (not 1992) fuel pump, carburetor, throttle cable, manifolds, etc... I have the engine in and it runs great. However, I never thought about until now but I have noticed that the transmission doesn't kick down, on hills, etc...I haven’t drove it much but it bogs down on hills.
I have a new carter single barrel (hot air choke) carburetor from O'Reillys on it. The transmission kick down linkage is mounted to the intake manifold and I see where a bolt screws in and out (see pictures) however it is nowhere close to hitting the throttle linkage in the carburetor to "kick it down". Am I using the wrong carburetor, it was the replacement part from O'Reillys? Is it because I am using a 1982 carburetor on a 1992 engine? Is there a universal bracket sold that will link the kick down and throttle cable for a single barrel? I have been racking my brain trying to connect the transmission kick down to the carburetor to ensure that the transmission kicks down.
Would not having the kick down connected cause bogging down on hills? I think so.
In addition, there is something up with my throttle cable (as can be seen from the pictures) it doesn’t stay on correctly and seems to not be the correct length. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Respectfully,
-Larg3n
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#2
Welcome to the forum, larg3n! The end of the throttle cable does not look as though it is pressed far enough onto the ball of the throttle arm.
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.
#3
1986F150six
Thanks for your reply!
Well, I have pressed the throttle cable back on many times and it always falls back into that position. I am pretty sure that I had that spacer machined to almost the exact height of the EGR that I took off, none the less, I will check to make sure.
In addition, this raises another question, how should the transmission linkage be adjusted? When I step on the gas should it tap the linkage to kick down?
Thanks for your reply!
-Larg3n
Thanks for your reply!
Well, I have pressed the throttle cable back on many times and it always falls back into that position. I am pretty sure that I had that spacer machined to almost the exact height of the EGR that I took off, none the less, I will check to make sure.
In addition, this raises another question, how should the transmission linkage be adjusted? When I step on the gas should it tap the linkage to kick down?
Thanks for your reply!
-Larg3n
#5
[QUOTE=1986F150six;16948519]Welcome to the forum, larg3n! The end of the throttle cable does not look as though it is pressed far enough onto the ball of the throttle arm.
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.[/QUOTE.]There should be the EGR plate between intake & carb, there is on my 81 300/six.
I do think what ever it is is taller because of the nut & studs.
The ball for the cable looks too small and why it will not stay on.
For the kick down I take it you don't have the old carb to look it over?
There may be a bracket that needs to be moved over to this carb for that kick down to hit?
Can also try looking up on line a replacement carb and see if they are listed for auto and non-auto.
I just gave a quick look on Auto Zone's site and they do not say anything about auto/non-auto trany. 1 for AC and all said something about the choke.
I checked pictures of my motor (think it is an 85) in my 81 F100 and the carb and I do not see any bracket for kick down on the carb but then my truck is stick shift.
If it was a 94 motor it had the hole for the fuel pump on the block?
If everything is bolted to that motor from the 84 then it should all work.
Dave ----
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.[/QUOTE.]There should be the EGR plate between intake & carb, there is on my 81 300/six.
I do think what ever it is is taller because of the nut & studs.
The ball for the cable looks too small and why it will not stay on.
For the kick down I take it you don't have the old carb to look it over?
There may be a bracket that needs to be moved over to this carb for that kick down to hit?
Can also try looking up on line a replacement carb and see if they are listed for auto and non-auto.
I just gave a quick look on Auto Zone's site and they do not say anything about auto/non-auto trany. 1 for AC and all said something about the choke.
I checked pictures of my motor (think it is an 85) in my 81 F100 and the carb and I do not see any bracket for kick down on the carb but then my truck is stick shift.
If it was a 94 motor it had the hole for the fuel pump on the block?
If everything is bolted to that motor from the 84 then it should all work.
Dave ----
#6
#7
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#8
I wish I had an auto so I could get a picture of the kick down setup.
It may not be till the weekend to get a picture of the carb, spacer (EGR) & cable.
Dave ----
#10
Ebay seller says there are 10 available, but not inexpensive!
NEW OEM FORD CABLE ASY ACCELEATOR PEDAL CARBURETOR THROTTLE E1TZ-9A758-D | eBay
NEW OEM FORD CABLE ASY ACCELEATOR PEDAL CARBURETOR THROTTLE E1TZ-9A758-D | eBay
#11
First, thank you everyone for posting and helping me out! The spacer I have on there now is about 3/8 taller than the EGR value that I took off. So, I am going to put the EGR valve back on and see if I can't get that kick down working. Just from a looking at it, I do believe this will solve my kickdown problem and possible the throttle cable problem.
Once I get everything installed I will report back if this fixed it or not
In addition, thanks for the linkage picture, that helps a lot!
Larg3n
Once I get everything installed I will report back if this fixed it or not
In addition, thanks for the linkage picture, that helps a lot!
Larg3n
#14
Welcome to the forum, larg3n! The end of the throttle cable does not look as though it is pressed far enough onto the ball of the throttle arm.
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.
It appears you have a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold. If so, is it thicker than the stock spacer? It might be lifting the carburetor up so the kick-down linkage is not in proper alignment. I think this is so as the two nuts which hold down the carburetor are very high on the studs. That also would affect the throttle cable geometry.