351w build ?s please read/help
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
How computer savvy are you? By far the best tuning solution will be with something like the Moates Quarterhorse that you tune yourself via laptop, the dyno tune shops are primarally focused on maximizing HP and some of the techniques used will absolutely destroy fuel milage. Dyno time is expensive and it's entirely likely you will need dozzens of tunes burned before you get the motor right where you want it, and all those won't cost you a cent extra after you place the initial investment... which is probably only equavelent to a single dyno session.
As for heads and intake, you should be looking at products like the AFR185 or RHS or Dart irons for sure, and you probably won't find a better intake than the TFS R series.
As for heads and intake, you should be looking at products like the AFR185 or RHS or Dart irons for sure, and you probably won't find a better intake than the TFS R series.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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I suck at computers 
But im not an idiot so maybe I could learn. I was just under the assumption that dyno is the only true way to know hp, torque etc. Is there somewhere I can learn about the programs? I kinda want to "set it and forget it", if you will
As for the heads im going to assume the dart and rhs need to be the 185s as well.
Thanks again
Will
But im not an idiot so maybe I could learn. I was just under the assumption that dyno is the only true way to know hp, torque etc. Is there somewhere I can learn about the programs? I kinda want to "set it and forget it", if you willAs for the heads im going to assume the dart and rhs need to be the 185s as well.
Thanks again
Will
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 74
From: Hartford, AL
You can check out this thread we had going a couple months ago on tuning your setup. It gives you a good idea of what's involved...if you go your own route. Look to spend around at least $500 if you have tuned a dyno shop.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-others.html
Also....don't forget you will need at least 30# injectors and minimum of 190 lph pump....as a fuel system upgrade.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-others.html
Also....don't forget you will need at least 30# injectors and minimum of 190 lph pump....as a fuel system upgrade.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Beatrice, NE
Brian,
I like the speedway kit, and I understand what you are saying about rod ratio. My question is, would it be better to buy custom parts to get the best rod ratio, or is the speedway kit gonna give me the best rod ratio-engine longevity. I believe you are saying its the best as far as longevity.
Also, do you have any idea what the difference between ring style a and ring style c is?
Thanks again
Will
I like the speedway kit, and I understand what you are saying about rod ratio. My question is, would it be better to buy custom parts to get the best rod ratio, or is the speedway kit gonna give me the best rod ratio-engine longevity. I believe you are saying its the best as far as longevity.
Also, do you have any idea what the difference between ring style a and ring style c is?
Thanks again
Will
IF you get the 351 Superstock rods, they are already rebuilt to performance standards. Probably can't have yours rebuilt for the money, unless yours are already re-done and ready to go. I don't know what the A or C rings are...probably has to do with the ring width. I would call & talk to them. I would take the whole assembly (and your flywheel and harmonic balancer) to a machine shop & have it all performanced balanced. You'll have a real stump puller that should last 100K easy if you take care of it.
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Senior User
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That sounds great, exactly what I wanted to hear. As for the heads is one better than the other Or is it just that the afrs are aluminum.
I sold the throttle body and maf I bought yesterday to a buddy for a small profit so I have some cash to buy good quality parts there as well. Is one brand better than the other when it comes to throttle bodies?
Oh yea which hydraulic cam should I use.
Thanks again for all the help.
Will
I sold the throttle body and maf I bought yesterday to a buddy for a small profit so I have some cash to buy good quality parts there as well. Is one brand better than the other when it comes to throttle bodies?
Oh yea which hydraulic cam should I use.
Thanks again for all the help.
Will
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Beatrice, NE
That sounds great, exactly what I wanted to hear. As for the heads is one better than the other Or is it just that the afrs are aluminum.
I sold the throttle body and maf I bought yesterday to a buddy for a small profit so I have some cash to buy good quality parts there as well. Is one brand better than the other when it comes to throttle bodies?
Oh yea which hydraulic cam should I use.
Thanks again for all the help.
Will
I sold the throttle body and maf I bought yesterday to a buddy for a small profit so I have some cash to buy good quality parts there as well. Is one brand better than the other when it comes to throttle bodies?
Oh yea which hydraulic cam should I use.
Thanks again for all the help.
Will
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Moderator
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Calhoun GA
How computer savvy are you? By far the best tuning solution will be with something like the Moates Quarterhorse that you tune yourself via laptop, the dyno tune shops are primarally focused on maximizing HP and some of the techniques used will absolutely destroy fuel milage. Dyno time is expensive and it's entirely likely you will need dozzens of tunes burned before you get the motor right where you want it, and all those won't cost you a cent extra after you place the initial investment... which is probably only equavelent to a single dyno session....
Have you had a bad experience at your local dyno tuning shop?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Beatrice, NE
Will, below is a link to an article about stroker motors. They cover the basics ones, but it will give you an idea of the things to look for. Also, if you search their tech articles, there's one that's a comparison between the different sizes (port volume) of Dart SBF cylinder heads that they performed on a 302 based stroker.
Ford Small-Block Stroker Engine Build - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
Ford Small-Block Stroker Engine Build - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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I called a couple different suppliers today and a local shop. They all seemed to like the 408 due to rod ratio. Dss especially. Is there any truth in this. Just thought I should ask.
Thanks again for all the continued help.
Will
Thanks again for all the continued help.
Will
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Beatrice, NE
Yes, the 408 does have a longer rod and slightly better ratio. 6.20/4.00=1.55 ratio. The 393 is 5.956/3.85=1.547 ratio. I wouldn't think that would be enough of a difference to worry about, but I'm no expert. Overall, the 408 will make more power and has a forged crank, H beam rods & forged pistons. The DDS 408 is race quality parts, but also 2X the price. If I was building a race motor, that would be the one. I'm not going to argue with them, they know way more about it than I do! I just assumed they offered the 393 kit for budget minded daily driver people with mild applications just like yours. Wonder why they advertise the "NEW" 393 kit if they're just going to push people toward the 408. Probably to compete with everyone else. Did they say the 393 wouldn't work or is questionable in terms of design, or just that the 408 is better?
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Senior User
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They said the 393 was good but for I want to do the 408 was better. They stated the rod ratio was better in the 408. Also that the pistons in 408 were better. They said do the torque I'm looking for and the strain I'm gonna out on everything when I do pull those hills that the forged crank is gonna take it way better than a cast crank will.
What do y'all think.
Will
What do y'all think.
Will
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Beatrice, NE
I think I would save $3000+ and just build a mild 400M, LOL
I'm not 100% convinced you need a completely forged assembly, but I have no practical experience w/Windsor strokers. If DDS and other suppliers say you do, then I'd follow their advice. One thing about it, if their all-forged kit won't handle it, nothing will.
I'm not 100% convinced you need a completely forged assembly, but I have no practical experience w/Windsor strokers. If DDS and other suppliers say you do, then I'd follow their advice. One thing about it, if their all-forged kit won't handle it, nothing will.