Build as much motor as budget allows. If you have the budget to stroke and add heads, cam and other goodies then by all means do so. You will not be dissapointed if you choose your combination carefully and pay attention to detail in assembly.

 

Here's a combo that should make you happy, it's a 30 over 351 with 58cc RHS180 heads to bump compression a bit and the Comp cams XE256H. The exhaust should be longtubes and the intake will have to be something like the Edelbrock Performer or TFS R series with a 75mm throttlebody.

 

This is exactly what I want my truck to produce.

Is there any possible way you can give me a run down on what I'd need for that? I'd probably build a separate motor while I keep my truck on the road and then just swap it in.

Im not a genius when it comes to this stuff, and will a stock block be ok to use to bore?

 

For the motor the whole parts list is there, the bottom end will be stock or rebuilt to stock spec with the exception of the pistons.. you want slugs with eyebrows that will clear 2.02" intake valves.. the stock dished pistons won't clear without some work. Where this gets complicated is with the induction and it also depends what you're starting with, if it's a carb application then it's pretty straight forward but if you want EFI then there is bunch more stuff to get.

Yep that's how it's usually done, you take a good used block that doesn't have too much cylinder wear and bore it out.

 

Its going to be EFI, Id like to literally take out my current 351w and drop this in, connecting everything the right way. It would be a daily driver. Id have the other motor there, which only has 76,000 miles on it, and all new sensors. So basically, id do the Edelbrock EFI intake with a twin 61mm throttle body.

Would my stock fuel system hold up? Or should I run bigger injectors. And I know my truck is Speed Density, so should I bite the bullet and go MAF or take it to Superchips and have them custom calibrate the computer?

 

I would use the mustang maf and eec that you mentioned earlier in the post. It will still need a tune written for it, but that wouldn't be an issue.

 

Also, yes, you will need at least a 190lph efi fuel pump and 30 lb injectors.

 

Yeah that's the best way to do it, and it can be done in a weekend.

Actually... I'm suggesting you use the regular Performer intake with a single 75mm TB.. I don't like the truck version.

You need MAF and 24-30lb injectors... there is no way around it.

 

That makes great power but it seems that it happens a bit high. Maybe im reading it wrong tho.

Will

 

Somehow the original thread got sidetracked a little, i think. That engine builds incredible torque but the peak hp happens at 5500. Thats the max rpm i would ever want it to spin. What would I need to do to bring the hp down in rpm say 1000rpms. If i could do that, I would be more than happy.

Thanks again and i look forward to the continued help.

Will

 

What are the bad aspects of the truck version?
How difficult is the MAF conversion? Is it literally bolt up and go?

 

300+ lb/ft. of torque from ~2200 to 5200 RPM at the rear wheels is too high?

I attribute the HP peak to the intake manifold setup they used. It tends to help higher RPM HP. Conanski favors the Edelbrock RPM single TB manifold, I would second that for this build as well.

 

Rla,

I apologize for my previous response, i deleted it. I thought you were talking about the other on here, not the one you posted about.

With that said, is it possible to put 350-400ftlbs to the ground without stroking it. Im guessing no, but it never hurts to ask.

Thanks again for all the help, keep the ideas coming.

Will

 

The dyno graph in my post is rear wheel HP and TQ. Torque is running 350+ from roughly 3250 to just over 4500 RPM. That my friend is a very reasonable amount of power for a mild 358 cubic engine. I noted before the manifold they used on this build favors higher RPM horsepower. If you used the manifold setup Conanski is suggesting my money is betting the torque curve would shift to the left and perhaps up a little.

Of course more cubic inches would yield more torque and horsepower for the same components used. If you feel you need that extra 50 lb/ft. of torque, pull out your wallet.

 

Not entirely......
You don't need a roller block. You could retro-fit a roller cam to a standard block if you want but it's a little pricey. Don't get me wrong, you don't need a roller cam either, but there are serious advantages to a roller cam. The reduction in friction and oil temp is only the start. The lobe profiles are the biggest advantage. The roller design allows a much more aggressive ramp speed which can open/close the valve quicker. For any given duration & lift, the valve spends more time closer to maximum lift. The result is more "area under the curve" (i.e. more flow). That means that you can run less lift, shorter duration and less valve overlap (less loss of cylinder pressure) than an "equivalent" flat tappet cam. That provides for a better torque curve, better MPG, smoother idle, less required compression, etc.. There is nothing wrong with flat tappets, but in a nutshell, a roller cam gives you more power with less cam. This can be a huge advantage when dealing with limited head flow (like stock heads). Also, keep in mind that when dealing with small port/valve heads with limited high RPM flow capabilities (like stock heads), the best thing you can do is increase the engine displacement. Considering your application of low/mid RPM torque, you don't need huge ports. You want to keep the port velocity high.

Maybe Conanski would be kind enough to run the exact same engine on Desktop Dyno, except with an appropriate roller cam of roughly equivalent lift/duration...just to compare the graphs. I would also like to see how stock or mild ported GT40's with a Hi-Torque/RV roller cam would compare to the superior flowing RHS 180 heads with a flat tappet cam. I have the 2000 version of Desktop Dyno but not the airflow files for the RHS heads. (I do, however, have them for stock & ported E7's and GT40's). I love messing around with Desktop Dyno!! It's like a video game for middle-aged & married gearheads!!