If you have the budget, I would build a stroker w/aftermarket heads. Check out the link below for Speedway Motors. They sell a stroker kit, but also have a cast crank that uses factory 351W rods and 302 pistons for $400.

351W Stroker - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

Yep...you're wrong. That is the entire kit that includes, pistons, rings, rods, bearings, and crank. You will have to buy everything anyway, except the rods and crank on a rebuild, so you're looking at around $400 or possibly less to stroke, depending on which way you go. Blkfrdsedan had a good link above and check out fordstrokers.com. Money well spent in my book, not many things you can buy for $400 to give you that return on investment.

 

fordstrokers didnt want to help me go the cheap route. No matter what i asked he said 2500 bucks for the stroker and he wouldnt even help me with the 392 he only wanted me to do the 408.

I totally understand it can be done on the cheap. And i know i dont need high $$ forged stuff but which kit will be the longest living, mileage speaking. I dont want to have to rebuild this engine in 50,000 miles.

Thanks again, i really do appreciate the help. Keep the ideas rolling.

Will

 

Btw, I learned a long time ago don't set a budget set a goal. It just might take longer till your done. With that said I don't want to have 5k in this engine but I'm ok with 2500 to 3000 in it, if it's reliable and will last 75-100,000 miles and will put out the I want.

Thanks again and keep the ideas coming.

Will

 

Any time you increase stroke you're going to decrease the rod-to-stroke ratio, unless you use longer rods and pistons with a shorter compression height (distance from the wrist pin CL to top of piston). If you use a shorter rod it makes the ratio even worse. The smaller the rod ratio, the more side thrust is applied to the cylinder walls, the faster the piston moves around TDC and the less direct the piston forces are applied to the crank. This is due to the increased rod angle. Plus, some of the combos require custom pistons that place the wrist pin very close or even partially into the lower ring grooves. This is where you develop problems with oil control.

With all that in mind, I would look into the 396 kit that I posted from Speedway. I noticed other big name companies offer it as well. If I'm reading it right, it still uses the standard 351W rods with 302 pistons. That sounds like a good compromise between rod ratio and non-custom parts. You should be able to buy the crank for $400, re-use your rods and buy some budget Hypereutectic pistons. IMO, for $870, your best just to buy the whole kit. You'll get the crank, reconditioned rods w/ARP bolts, KB pistons and rod/main bearings. You should be able to put together a nice stroker for $2500.

 

scat baby scat is all have to say, most of thier kits kits can be had for less than 1k, being your block is .30 over already its a perfect canidate

 

I've decided On the stroker now I have to decide on which kit, which heads and which cam and which efi intake setup. I've gotten alot of info from thus thread to start with.

Please let me know what y'all would do and why. I'm a firm believer that you can never learn too much.

Thanks again and keep the ideas coming.

Will

 

Ok,

Dumb question. I found an 80 mm mass air and 74 mm tb from a taurus sho v8 today. Can i use them with a mustang computer and a custom tune, or will i need to go 100% aftermarket with the stroker kit. I know I will have to buy an aftermarket intake but i got the parts for 20 bucks so if I could use them that would be awesome.

Thanks in advance,
Will

 

Brian,

I like the speedway kit, and I understand what you are saying about rod ratio. My question is, would it be better to buy custom parts to get the best rod ratio, or is the speedway kit gonna give me the best rod ratio-engine longevity. I believe you are saying its the best as far as longevity.

Also, do you have any idea what the difference between ring style a and ring style c is?


Thanks again
Will

 

With a custom tune you can use the 80mm meter and the TB , the mustang computer , and what injector size you want....

 

Ok cool, so that was 20 bucks well spent? Or is it best to pony up and spend the cash to buy the "correct" stuff from say trick flow as an example.


Thanks again
Will

 

One more thing, can I order a custom tune online or is it best to find a good local speed shop and have them stick it on a dyno and go from there?

Thanks again
Will

 

Dyno-tune locally, hands down.

 

For the MA meter and injectors look at PRO M racing , i would use a matched set of injectors if you go up on size , dyno tune all the way , no two tunes are the same , this is money well spent IMO....

 

Sounds good, thats kinda what i figured about the dyno tune.

Now to figure out exactly which intake, heads and such to get, conanski, blkfordsedan, do you guys have any suggestions.If i figure out the combo im going to use early enough, maybe i can find some stuff used and save some money.

Thanks again and I look forward to the continued help.

Will