Howdy folks! Thanks again for all the comments and help. I wanted to get a sense of what people's impressions of the A4LD is. I live on a steep mountain grade, and I've heard many stories from mechanics of the trans failing; that taken with the post on rebuilds, has me wondering if this transmission can ever be worth a darn. So what has your experience with the A4LD been? How long did the original last? How long did a rebuild last, and how many tries did it take to get a good rebuild?
Thanks, David in Mt Baldy

 

The two main things to remember with the A4LD is that is it hydralically controlled, that being said it will not be as reliable as an electronically controlled equivelent, but that doesn't mean the trans can't be made tough. The other thing is that the torque converter produces a lot of heat when it is unlocked in overdrive.

The first most important thing about a rebuild is you need a shift kit. The shift kit raises the engagement pressure, which dramatically reduces slipping. You also need a good trans cooler, I recommend the B&M coolers. An A4LD with a heavy duty torque converter with the right stall speed, the shift kit, and few other upgraded internals is good to around 300 hp and 280 ft/lbs torque.

The torque converter will still produce far to much heaat for the cooler to handle if you go any rear distance in OD with the torque converter unlocked. The torque converter lock almost feels like a shift after it engages 4th gear, sometimes its subtle though. If you go up a hill, as you increase throttle, assuming you are already in OD, you will feel the torque converter disengage and the RPMs will go up by 300 - 500 rpm. If you give it a little more, the trans will downshift to third. It can also engage and disengage torque converter lockup in third. However the sheer load on the converter is less, so less heat is produced. To play it safe, manually disable OD when pulling up steep hills, especially if you are hauling. You aren't going to get good economy up a hill anyway, might as well reduce the stress and strain on the drivetrain. On most A4LD models, this is done by moving the shifter from OD to D. On the electronic transmissions (4R44e, 4R55e, 5R55e), most of these same rules apply.

 

I've owned four Aerostars with the A4LD. My first three made it to over 250K miles. My current one is ~208K miles and still going. I didn't retire any of them from a transmission failure.
With that being said, I do absolutely no towing and I always changed the fluid and filter every 25K miles. (Which reminds me.....my current ride is about due)

 

[QUOTE=KhanTyranitar;10356584]

could you explain a bit more about this? Thanks... David

 

The torque converter will still produce far to much heaat for the cooler to handle if you go any rear distance in OD with the torque converter unlocked.
this is what i was trying to quote... david in mt baldy

 

what the guys above said.

quality of the rebuild depends on the technical skill and knowledge of the tech doing the work, the quality level of parts used and the honesty of the shop owner/manager.
always get several independent references, not the manager's secret paid relatives. check BBB and internet reports.
lots of auto tranny ripoff crooks, few good techs.

steep mountain drives classifies at severe service per Ford.

synthetic Mercon only. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Valvo MaxLife Syn., Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF

far less heat breakdown, better component wear protection. runs better in cold weather. lasts longer

change every 25k towing >50k lt. loads miles.

inline filter, protects delicate parts and small lube passages from plugging
, Inline transmission filters, Bulkpart transmission parts

complete MAX A4LD step by step instructions for DIY rebuild.
My A4LD transmission rebuild diary - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

A4LD Ford - rear wheel drive Transmission Parts Catalog


you can DIY with some mechanic experience and tranny manual following the above detailed article the torque converter change-upgrade to a 4L double disc with Torrington bearings, valve body shift kit modes or new VB, servos-upgrade to larger size avail, and change the vacuum modulator which should be changed every 3-5 years, the neoprene diaphragm hardens-spits and dumps ATF into the engine intake.

 

great info! Any more stories folks? David in Mt Baldy

 

I've had my Aerostar for 8 years and I tow a 2000lb tent trailer up the steepest mountains here in Canada with no problem because I put in an extra (there's one from the factory too) transmission cooler (a Hayden I think), tow in D not OD and change the fluid every 2 years - same time as I get the trailer's wheel bearings regreased.

My journey every year is a family reunion from Vancouver to Kamloops and back. I bought the van when it had 270,000kms and didn't do a thing to it. The first time it towed, it shifted badly but was OK, but the next year I blew the transmission. (got lots of mileage out of the original so I didn't grumble much). So my mechanic gave me a rebuilt one.

The next year when we were coming back, it stuck in 3rd gear one really hot summer's day, so I installed a cooler...no problems after that.

 

Yeah, the stock cooler is very inadequate. I'm not going to do anything with my '97 Aerostar, the 5R55e is less prone to problems, and the stock cooler is a stacked plate type and is fairly large. But I am going to install a temp gauge, and I do know the limits of the trans. But on that point, its not really the same transmission. The A4LD is a good transmission if it is kept cool and properly maintained. In its upgraded form, it can be very tough. I still recommend a shift kit.

 

is the 1997 4.0 cooler better than the one on my 91 or same?

 

a '94 and 3 96's no tranny issues.