I disconnected the wastegate actuator rod and the post and lever to which it attaches now just flops back and forth with no resistance. I presume this *is* the wastegate?

Does this mean my wastegate spring is broken/missing? Can I wire it shut for test purposes or put a carburetor spring on it, as suggested in this forum) and/or hook the (adjusted shorter) rod back up to it?

I can generate no more than 15 psi of boost at 7000' elevation - that's how I got started down this path. What is the real long term solution?

Thanks!

Steve

 

There is no wastegate spring. The wastegate is just that a gate. The actuator that you disconnected is what holds it closed.

You say you can only generate 15 lbs of boost.........are you running stock tuning? If so, that is not far off of "normal"...

 

Look at Clays turbo removal/install instructions. Figure 4. Is this where you disconnected?

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf

What boost and EGT are you seeing with stuff disconnected?

 

My sig line shows the mods - so I'm pretty much running stock. I disconnected the rod that goes from the dashpot on the back of the engine (the one with the pressure line connected to it).

It's the linkage shown in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ore-power.html

The truck did poorly on the dyno/emission test (171 hp in 3rd gear at 60 mph) and the shop said that most will show low 200s for horsepower. My buddy's 2000 truck gets 215 hp. I did generate 191 hp in 2nd gear at 60 mph.

I have a temporary boost gauge and no EGT gauges - those are coming next.

I did build and use a boost detector and I believe I'm sealed up otherwise.

Thanks!

 

Yeah, that's the wastegate, and with the linkage in the photo http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../photo-148.jpg,disconnected it's hard to see that you''ll build any boost. You'll need to reconnect to help hold the gate closed. You may be able to wire or spring it, I just don't know how. Like Ken said, I don't think 15 is that far down from avg stock boost. Hopefully more will be along. Good luck.

 

With the actuator disconnected, it SHOULD just flop back & forth. You don't want to drive that way, naturally. You should be able to run it with the shortened rod with no issues. Here's what it looks like under the outlet adapter if you're curious:

 

I just realized that the waste gate spring is inside the actuator. I thought it was inside the turbo housing. My mistake. I also assessed that my linkage rod is properly adjusted and so the rod is not holding the waste gate open. I have confirmed what I set out to learn, so I will reconnect the clip and put it back together. Thanks for the helpful advice and links.

 

From the factory it opens a bit too soon, so having it tightened up a bit is a good idea. It will help you keep a little more boost, and that isn't a bad thing at all. You don't have to worry about the turbo until you approach 30psi with the stock housing. I can run my van turbo over 35psi with no issues after 2 years...