I blew out a couple diamond audio speakers when I first go them and pretty much determined it was from listening to music that I had downloaded too loud (I think both times it was one song in particular). Depending where you get it I just don't think downloaded/compressed music is as clean. I've noticed that DVDs (I get music videos on dvd for work) sound much clearer then even CDs.

 

With the new tweeters installed and more power I don't hear the static sound any more. Compressed music still isn't as crisp on the highs as I'd like, but it sounds way better than those stock tweeters. After handling the ones the installer took out I can see why. They are just flimsy. The speakers in the door are as light as a feather as well. Crazy.

 

Oh ok thanks for the update guess it would be pointless to complain to the dealer again. I guess I'll just have to look into getting a better sound system

 

Swengle's wiring explanation mentions these are a "balanced inputs". Does that mean they are low level/line level RCA type signals? Or are they high level inputs?

When people use these wires as a signal to an aftermarket amp, does it matter that there is no Left and Right (mono) signal? Even mono sub amps have a L+R input. Or do you split the signal and create a pseudo left and right? Or just plug one RCA into the aftermarket amp?

 

Assuming the correct use of industry terminology, a balanced transmission would have one line carrying an analog audio signal (hot, +) and another line carrying a 'inverted' or 180° phase-shifted analog audio signal (cold, -), and often a ground reference (GND). The idea is that any noise that is induced into the wiring will equally affect both lines (common mode is the term), the 'normal' and 'inverted' signals. At the far end, the amplifier compares the normal and inverted signals to determine what is the desired signal (for example, a desired signal may have a positive-going peak on the 'hot' line and a negative-going peak on the 'cold' line) while noise induced to a cable will have the same characteristics (for example, it will appear as a positive-going spike on BOTH lines) .. the amplifier stage at the receiving end will be able to use this to pick out the noise. Other examples of this system outside of car audio include telephones and professional microphones. Both applications requiring good signal transmission over long distances in noisy environments. So while your vehicle may not be a long distance it is definitely a noisy environment. This is all happening at line-level and not speaker level.

An audio signal carried on a 'RCA' jack is an example of an unbalanced signal since it only carries one analog audio signal (+) and a reference ground (GND).

I would say most Low-Frequency Emitters are never used in stereo because people have a hard time figuring out where a low frequency rumble is coming from. If you're talking about the output from the head unit I would believe the left and right channels have been mixed down to mono already.
I've also seen aftermarket amps that take balanced inputs (either on a terminal strip or with an XLR connector) so that might work out better if your source is putting out that kind of signal.

 

Although a very technical and articulate response that I learned a few things from it really did not answer my questions, perhaps I did not ask them clearly.

Can the stock sub amp audio signal be used with a standard amp? If so is it high level or low level? I would guess low level RCA. If so then just solder on some RCA to the factory wires.

If the signal can be used then the issue is its just mono. Most all aftermarket amps have a stereo input, what happens if you just input a mono signal with one RCA. Does it still work fine?

 

Okay. I was trying to explain that balanced audio has an additional phase inverted component to it, and that unbalanced audio does not, so the implication in the text was that you would not use the '-' signal to hook up an unbalanced audio device.

If you ignore the '-' line and just use the '+' line you have a normal, unbalanced, 'RCA style' line level signal.

If this is a one-channel amplifier, more inputs does not make it have more outputs.
If you combine a signal with nothing (floating input), it is the same thing as combining a signal with the same signal. You don't get any additional audio fidelity by splitting up a signal at the inputs just to put it back together internally in the amplifier. If it makes you feel better that you're using both inputs on the amp then you can use a short female to 2 male Y cable.
If it uses a high-Z input and mixing stage, as it should if it offers a pass-through feature, all I can see happening is that the gain changes and you have to adjust the amplifier gain accordingly... but during the course of setting up the system you will be adjusting that anyway.
The difference is that you won't be using the pass-through feature since the stock head unit puts out a separate signal for the low frequency emitter already, which has been mixed down to mono and low pass or band pass filtered for you.

 

With as much money as you have to spend on one of these trucks...especially the higher end ones...why oh why wouldn't they put in a Bose sound system? Is it a partnering issue? My wife's Infiniti G37 has the best sounding car stereo system I have ever heard (from the dealer) and of course it is a Bose.

 

PrinceValium, which one of the ladies is your wife?

 

LOL if one of those ladies was my wife she surely would not fit into an Infiniti G37

 

Yes, most aftermarket amps are either 2 channel or 4 channel. If they have markings on them such as 'R' and 'L' that is just to assist the installer in keeping the wires straight. It really doesn't have any bearing on anything. A 4 channel amp is capable of amplifying 4 completely different signals.

If there is a single channel going to the existing amp then you could use either the 'R' or 'L' marked channel on your 2-channel aftermarket amp. It will work just fine but you will only utilize one of the 2 channels the amp has. You can also look into bridging where you actually combine the 2 channels to make one big channel. For instance a 50Wx2 channel amplifier could become a 100Wx1 channel amplifier when bridged. You need to review the instructions for your aftermarket amp to ensure that this is possible. There are also impedance issues to worry about when bridging as well.

If you are not attempting to use a standalone amp but are trying to use a new subwoofer with integrated amplifier (AKA a Powered Sub) then just use one of the 2 inputs on it. The powered subs generally combine the 'R' and 'L' inputs into a single channel anyways to ensure that the subwoofer is used regardless of whether the low frequencies are coming from the left or right channel at that particular instance. They only provide the 2 inputs to provide that combining function for you in case your headunit does not.

I can only assume that the factory setup does this upstream of where you are looking and that is why there is a single feed. It is very common for headunits to have a single subwoofer output that already combines the low frequencies from both the left and right channels.

I am not very familiar with the stock setups as I refuse to use them so I cannot give you specifics...just generalizations on what the factory setup is probably doing.

Hope that helps.

 

It does help. I am replacing the aftermarket sub/amp with a new box, DVC sub and a monoblock sub amp (Rockford). I wanted to use the stock sub signal to tap into for the audio signal and run it to my Cache Cloc+D line converter. It sounds like with my setup I can just use the "L" or "R" consistently the whole way through and it will not matter.

 

Is there any gain control over the stock subwoofer other than just the bass/treble settings? I dont know if i ever hear the sub

 

No there is not a separate subwoofer level or gain adjustment.

 

Has anyone replaced the subwoofer speaker itself leaving the the stock sub enclosure?