Stereo System
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 630
Likes: 30
From: Green Acres, Ca.
Stereo System
The stereo system in these trucks sound pretty dog gone good for a factory system. But, I can't find any specifics on it anywhere. Does anyone know the specifics on this system? Amps? Power ratings? Speakers? Boosters?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 63
From: Texas
I would like to know a little more myself. It sounds great for stock. I know someone on here changed the woofer to a JL Audio and I will probably do the same. I believe it is made by Sony but cannot remember.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
The 2011 Navigation with 'Premium Audio' in a Super Crew Cab has the following:
(Per Ford Marketing)
4x35 watt amplifier attached to the head unit
100 watt Subwoofer
2 Standard Paper Cone Speakers located in front door
2 Tweeters in front door A Pillars
2 Standard Paper Cone Speakers located on sides behind back seats
2 Tweeters in Back Doors
One person at Ford said system was made by Clarion/XNavi
Another person at Ford said system was made by Delphi
The 2008 Navigation with Audiophile Sound had the following:
300 watt amplifier (not sure how the amp was configured per channel)
Subwoofer (Not sure of wattage)
2 Higher Quality Speakers located in front door
2 Higher Quality Tweeters in front door A Pillars
2 Higher Quality Speakers located on sides behind back seats
2 Higher Quality Tweeters in Back Doors
Moving from a 2008 to a 2011, the sound quality in the 2011 does not have the clarity, presence and definition of the 2011 sound system.
(Per Ford Marketing)
4x35 watt amplifier attached to the head unit
100 watt Subwoofer
2 Standard Paper Cone Speakers located in front door
2 Tweeters in front door A Pillars
2 Standard Paper Cone Speakers located on sides behind back seats
2 Tweeters in Back Doors
One person at Ford said system was made by Clarion/XNavi
Another person at Ford said system was made by Delphi
The 2008 Navigation with Audiophile Sound had the following:
300 watt amplifier (not sure how the amp was configured per channel)
Subwoofer (Not sure of wattage)
2 Higher Quality Speakers located in front door
2 Higher Quality Tweeters in front door A Pillars
2 Higher Quality Speakers located on sides behind back seats
2 Higher Quality Tweeters in Back Doors
Moving from a 2008 to a 2011, the sound quality in the 2011 does not have the clarity, presence and definition of the 2011 sound system.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
I agree, I had a 2008 F150 with the Audiophile system and sounded better than my current 2011 F250 premium system. I think I may swap out the speakers to better quality.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,402
Likes: 0
From: Upstate, NY
You'll get a huge return with better speakers. I've always used Infinity Kappa series and they really work well with the premium sound system.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 107
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Any idea of how to get the Navigation Head Unit into a configuration/diagnostics mode (usually some combination of control button sequence).
In trying to get the most out of my system, the input levels on my Factory Premium Navigation are all over the place. The worst is the Line In Input. It is so weak the input is unusable and does not have the volume of the Line In Input on the 2008. My servicing dealer and the assistance number say it is just the way the unit is and nothing is wrong with it. With research you will see there is a lot of dissatisfaction in what $1800 gets you in the Premium Sound Navigation system vs the 2008 Audiophile Navigation System.
In trying to get the most out of my system, the input levels on my Factory Premium Navigation are all over the place. The worst is the Line In Input. It is so weak the input is unusable and does not have the volume of the Line In Input on the 2008. My servicing dealer and the assistance number say it is just the way the unit is and nothing is wrong with it. With research you will see there is a lot of dissatisfaction in what $1800 gets you in the Premium Sound Navigation system vs the 2008 Audiophile Navigation System.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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One of the first things I did when I got my 2011 Job 2 F350 (PS Crew Cab) was to pour over its wiring diagrams, including the Premium Audio (w/ Navigation) system. In short:
Audio Control Module (ACM) – center dash, the “radio”. For basic audio system and Premium without Nav this unit also directly drives the front and rear speakers. For Premium Audio (w/ Navigation) system it drives what appear to be balanced outputs feeding the audio amplifier and powered subwoofer.
Audio amplifier (Premium Audio w/ Navigation) – Tucked up in the passenger side foot well, all the way up against the firewall. Drives the speakers, front and rear (i.e. 4 channel). Its input power is fused at 20 amps (BCM fuse F27). That combined with no heat sinks, plus I suspect no DC-to-DC converter (not big enough), means no more than about 40 watts per channel (which jives with wharrell’s post).
Powered Subwoofer (Premium Audio w/ Navigation). Behind the rear seat. Again a 20 amp fuse (BCM F19). Balanced inputs plus an enable line. It’s big enough to have a DC-to-DC converter, which it must have if 100 watts (wharrell’s post again).
Front Speakers (with tweeters) – main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel. While not shown in the wiring diagrams, the tweeters have a simple LC high pass filter. Presume the mains have a like filter for the lows & mids.
Rear Speakers (with tweeters) – again the wiring diagram is vague, but it appears the rear speakers have some sort of crossover in them as the tweeters are driven out some unidentified black box associated with the main rear speakers.
Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM) – If you have SYNC, then this box is installed. It appears to be the main SYNC computer. Behind passenger side dash, to the right of glove box. If you have wired up USB2 to put a memory stick in the glove box, this is the box you plugged into.
Satellite Digital Audio Receiver System (SDARS) module – Behind passenger side dash, to the right of glove box. Balanced outputs to APIM (with SYNC) or to ACM (no SYNC).
Global Positioning System Module (GPSM) - Centered behind the dash, all the way at the top. Probably tucked in behind the ACM.
And to round things out, the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) for the steering wheel mounted controls.
All modules are CAN bus connected, except the amp and subwoofer. Lots of messages flying around.
Agree that swapping out the speakers would be a good upgrade. But one will need to include crossovers and/or filters at the same time. Upgrading the main amplifier looks doable too, given the (apparently) balanced inputs. But a replacement won’t fit where the OEM one current sits, it’s a tight fit.
Steve
Audio Control Module (ACM) – center dash, the “radio”. For basic audio system and Premium without Nav this unit also directly drives the front and rear speakers. For Premium Audio (w/ Navigation) system it drives what appear to be balanced outputs feeding the audio amplifier and powered subwoofer.
Audio amplifier (Premium Audio w/ Navigation) – Tucked up in the passenger side foot well, all the way up against the firewall. Drives the speakers, front and rear (i.e. 4 channel). Its input power is fused at 20 amps (BCM fuse F27). That combined with no heat sinks, plus I suspect no DC-to-DC converter (not big enough), means no more than about 40 watts per channel (which jives with wharrell’s post).
Powered Subwoofer (Premium Audio w/ Navigation). Behind the rear seat. Again a 20 amp fuse (BCM F19). Balanced inputs plus an enable line. It’s big enough to have a DC-to-DC converter, which it must have if 100 watts (wharrell’s post again).
Front Speakers (with tweeters) – main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel. While not shown in the wiring diagrams, the tweeters have a simple LC high pass filter. Presume the mains have a like filter for the lows & mids.
Rear Speakers (with tweeters) – again the wiring diagram is vague, but it appears the rear speakers have some sort of crossover in them as the tweeters are driven out some unidentified black box associated with the main rear speakers.
Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM) – If you have SYNC, then this box is installed. It appears to be the main SYNC computer. Behind passenger side dash, to the right of glove box. If you have wired up USB2 to put a memory stick in the glove box, this is the box you plugged into.
Satellite Digital Audio Receiver System (SDARS) module – Behind passenger side dash, to the right of glove box. Balanced outputs to APIM (with SYNC) or to ACM (no SYNC).
Global Positioning System Module (GPSM) - Centered behind the dash, all the way at the top. Probably tucked in behind the ACM.
And to round things out, the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) for the steering wheel mounted controls.
All modules are CAN bus connected, except the amp and subwoofer. Lots of messages flying around.
Agree that swapping out the speakers would be a good upgrade. But one will need to include crossovers and/or filters at the same time. Upgrading the main amplifier looks doable too, given the (apparently) balanced inputs. But a replacement won’t fit where the OEM one current sits, it’s a tight fit.
Steve
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 11
From: Greenwood, SC
I replaced all the factory speakers, makes a huge difference.
The door mid range speakers just have a diode stuck on the back to isolate the highs for the tweeter that is wired in-line. I would not call it a crossover but that is what it does.
The door mid range speakers just have a diode stuck on the back to isolate the highs for the tweeter that is wired in-line. I would not call it a crossover but that is what it does.
New User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Audio amplifier (Premium Audio w/ Navigation) – Tucked up in the passenger side foot well, all the way up against the firewall. Drives the speakers, front and rear (i.e. 4 channel). Its input power is fused at 20 amps (BCM fuse F27). That combined with no heat sinks, plus I suspect no DC-to-DC converter (not big enough), means no more than about 40 watts per channel (which jives with wharrell’s post).
Steve
Would you happen to have any further information on this amplifier that drives the front and rear door speakers? P/N, price, or wiring diagram perhaps. I just dropped my truck off at the dealer this morning to get the stereo checked out. The door speakers are doing some really funky stuff and I am almost 100% convinced that it is a bad amp. Should be under warranty, but I would like this info just in case they start giving me the run around. Thanks.
Update - The dealer is going to swap out my head unit under warranty, said it will only take a day or two to get the part in. I was kind of surprised how fast they could get it, I have heard that there are supply shortages on these head units with the touch-screen navigation due to the problems in Japan. I hadn't even realized it, but my right-rear speakers weren't putting out any sound at all. Now I just hope that this fixes it and that amp isn't the real problem, but I guess that if it is I will have a new head unit and a new amp. Can't really complain, just glad they are fixing it.
-Justin
New User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Disregard, missed this the first time I read swengle's post. Front Speakers (with tweeters) – main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 610
Likes: 3
So if it has a seperate amplifier then does that mean it would be possible to intercept the signal between the head unit and amplifier to hook in an after market amp. I know alot of people have been using the line level converters on the speaker side, but seems like sound quality would be alot better if you could just get tap off the preamp side of the head unit. Really would be nice if someone would come out with a plug and play unit! Out of curiosity what exactly does "balanced" mean and how does it differ from unbalanced.
New User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I would imagine that it would be pretty simple to do that. Just unplug the harness going into the amp from the headunit, get a pigtail harness that looks just like the plug on the amp, and run your aftermarket stuff straight from there. Sounds simple, sure it isn't.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,326
Likes: 18
From: Gilbert
Good luck finding that harness (unless you get it from Ford). I searched the aftermarket everywhere and couldn't find it.
I ended up bailing on doing the project myself and had a shop install my JL HD900/5 amp with JL 13TW5 sub (spl2k box). I'm running factory door speakers for the time being. They're holding up but I have the gains turned pretty far down on the JL amp. There's alot of potential with that amp! For the record, I'm using an Audio Control LC6i line converter.
I threw some pics of the factory junk in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10496891
I ended up bailing on doing the project myself and had a shop install my JL HD900/5 amp with JL 13TW5 sub (spl2k box). I'm running factory door speakers for the time being. They're holding up but I have the gains turned pretty far down on the JL amp. There's alot of potential with that amp! For the record, I'm using an Audio Control LC6i line converter.
I threw some pics of the factory junk in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10496891