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Truck will not start. If I give shot of starting fluid it will and then runs fine. I hate to do that. I know it is horrible for these engines.
I just replaced all glow plugs. The fuel bowl heater does not seem to be my problem as I have checked the fuse. And the WTS light is on, and tach moves with rotation of engine.
I considered CPS, but why would it run fine once started. Same with the fuel pump. Would the truck run okay once started if fuel pump is bad?
Edit: oil level is fine. Needs changed but is full. Also the HP reservoir is full.
Tried finding the problem with existing threads, but having no luck.
When I unplugged the ICP and the truck started, I also had a battery charger on the truck for a few hours. So it fired.
We went camping and I thought unplugging the ICP trick would work and it did not. Thank GOD we had electric site and the battery charger. Put the charger on the truck for a couple hours and it fired.
I took the batteries in for test and they both had 100% charge. One battery was down to 550CCA and the other was 620CCA. Both batteries are Duralast, rated for 750/950. I am glad to say our local Autozone did warranty replace the batteries. I would not recommend the Duralast battery.
So I ask myself, why did something so simple get overlooked? Well I replaced my starter about a month ago so the engine was turning over with what sounded like plenty of RPM. But evidently the amperage was too low. With the new batteries the truck fired up multiple times without any hesitation.
Morale of the story is, just cuz the truck sounded like it was turning over with enough RPM, the batteries appear to have been the problem.
I just had to warranty out my gold top Autozone Duracrap batterys myself. they crapped out at 11 months old. I had the 65's in there that are 1000cca. It got progressively worse, if it sat over the weekend it would not start, if i ran it everyday it would fire just fine. It finally got to the point that I had to jump it after just sitting over night.
When I unplugged the ICP and the truck started, I also had a battery charger on the truck for a few hours. So it fired.
We went camping and I thought unplugging the ICP trick would work and it did not. Thank GOD we had electric site and the battery charger. Put the charger on the truck for a couple hours and it fired.
I took the batteries in for test and they both had 100% charge. One battery was down to 550CCA and the other was 620CCA. Both batteries are Duralast, rated for 750/950. I am glad to say our local Autozone did warranty replace the batteries. I would not recommend the Duralast battery.
So I ask myself, why did something so simple get overlooked? Well I replaced my starter about a month ago so the engine was turning over with what sounded like plenty of RPM. But evidently the amperage was too low. With the new batteries the truck fired up multiple times without any hesitation.
Morale of the story is, just cuz the truck sounded like it was turning over with enough RPM, the batteries appear to have been the problem.
Thanks again!
Get you one of those volt output meters that plugs into the power port by the radio.
1) It will show the voltage of the batts (12.5)
2) turn key on and votage will drop as GPR kicks in (11.5) Your voltage most likely dropped below 10.5 and it would not fire.
(3) after starting truck when wait to start light goes out the voltage will go up. ( to 12.5)
(4) When the GPR goes off the voltage will climb to the altenator output (14.5)
This handy little thing checks a lot of stuff.
have you checked the out put of your Altenator, you may have a problem there.