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All my trucks had been really hard to cold-start, because the fuel boiled out of them. Starting with the yellow truck, I installed electric fuel pumps, and cold-starts got much easier
After a while, the yellow truck developed symptoms of "too much" fuel. Hard warm-starts, loss of power, occasional stalling, strong smell of fuel and back-firing. So I installed a fuel pressure regulator
After that, the problems got worse! Cold and hot starts became difficult, the fuel pressure was fluctuating at the carb, and it would die at stop signs. I had to "two-foot" it back home, and parked it overnight
Figuring I screwed something up with the regulator, I pulled it out, and plumbed it straight. Once back together, it wouldn't start at all!
I checked the flow and pressure at the carb, and they were both perfect. I pulled the float bowl to check for a stuck float or valve, but it was all good. I cleaned it anyway. Still no start
So I pulled a plug, and it was black with a soft soot. A little spray cleaner cleaned them right up, but still wouldn't start. The plugs had a few thousand miles on them, and a couple years, so I replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap. Still no start
I rolled the engine over by hand to check the timing. The distributor and timing marks still lined up, so it didn't jump or excessively stretch the timing chain. Rotated distributor a bit forward and back. (Probably shouldn't have done that). Still no start
Basic troubleshooting: gas, spark, air
Getting gas-perhaps too much. The accelerator pump is fine. Valve, seat, float, spring and all that other stuff is fine. Not a gas problem
Air-air cleaner is clean, and it's off. Not an air problem
Spark-pulled the wire that runs from coil to cap. Crank the engine. Got spark, but it seemed weak. Pulled the coil from the copper truck for testing. Same story-has spark but seems weak
With nothing else left that would make sense, I pulled the ignition control module from the copper truck and dropped it in. The yellow truck then fired right up!
It runs, but a bit rough. Tomorrow I'll fix the timing, but I have to pull the a/c bracket to get to the distributor hold-down bolt. It'll have to wait, cuz it's 112 this afternoon, and everything, including tools, is too hot to touch
Swapping the ing module is always the 1st troubleshooting test.
As far as the dizzy bolt access and the a/c bracket, get to modifying a old wrench (heat and bend) and a piece of round stock with a 90 bend for a handle.
Ignition modules,74(black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will notinterchange.76to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable. Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY. Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's. D4AZ-12A199-C 1974 only Dura Spark ignition modules identified by a colored plastic insert located above where the wires feed out. 2others: One has a red plasticinsert, the other has a yellow or brown plastic insert. Red module is D7AZ-12A199-A used in some CA vehicles ONLY. D9AZ-12A199-C (replacedD8AZ-12A199-A). One of these modules is yellow, one is brown..Since the part number was replaced, I cannot recall which module was which color. These modules were used in 1978/79 302 & 351M/W vehicles sold in high altitudes only. 351W: Passenger Cars & Econoline sonly. 1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced 6AZ-12A199-B - D7AZ-12A199-B - D8VZ-12A199-A - D9VZ-12A199-A) ..Ignition Module -blue insert (Motorcraft DY-893)/ Available from Ford. Myriad1976/90's FoMoCo vehicles. GreenSales in OH. Collectors Auto Supply in WA. Haven Ford inKS. Klimesh Motor Sales in IA. Bob Allen Ford in KS. Freese Motor Inc in IA. Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY. Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC.
No worried ND will come along here shortly and post exactly who has what and how many on the shelf.
Another option for reaching the bolt is a crows foot. Fits the end of a 3/8" extension and looks like a open end wrench.
Less than $12 for a set of 7 at your favorite Chinese tool store. I'd think about the flare nut version as they hit more sides of the bolt head, reducing the chance of rounding the head.
Another option for reaching the bolt is a crows foot. Fits the end of a 3/8" extension and looks like a open end wrench.
Less than $12 for a set of 7 at your favorite Chinese tool store. I'd think about the flare nut version as they hit more sides of the bolt head, reducing the chance of rounding the head.
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