I recently bought an '88 F150 351 with 67k original miles on it for $1000. It runs pretty good despite a massive exhaust leak (in the pipes, not the manifold). It also has a leaky valve cover on the passenger side. My friend and I were looking it over last night and thought it would be a good idea to pull the engine and redo all the gaskets. I won't be able to do it for a month or so and in the mean time I'm going to try to fix the exhaust leak.

If any of you have done this with this truck or similar, I would appreciate any pointers (like problems you ran into pulling or reinstalling the engine, etc). I plan on installing headers while I have the engine out...what ones do you recommend? What else would you do once the engine is out?

Any tips are welcome, help save a brother from a little pain and heartache if you have past experience! Thanks!

 

How much do you want to spend?!?!?!? LOL!!!!! check your compression on all cylinders before pulling it to make sure your alright that way... Personally that 351w was kind of a PITA to pull! I just did mine about 18 months ago and still have to get the money to finish it off.

General advise:
Mark everything! After 2 days or 2weeks with the engine out you'll forget where something goes. Get a 50-100 pack of ziplock bags with a white window you can write on... this way you can throw you bolts in bags and lable them as they come off... Or the old cardboard trick always helps... You can cut little "X" shapes in cardboard the same shape as the bolt pattern and write on the cardboard notes to help you remember what each piece of cardboard is for. Get a can or two of PB Blaster if you don't already have some! You definatly need it! Take pictures as it comes out as a visual reference so you remember where stuff goes.

Taking it out:
Honestly if you have the cash and your radiator core support is rusted out... Buy a new one or get one from the JY and take the old one off to make pulling the engine easier. You can do without this but it definatly makes it easier. So does a load leveler to tilt the engine as it comes out. I took mine out of a F250 so it was huge PITA to get it up and over the front end with my cherry picker.

Seals kit:
Get a good felpro kit. I would definatly recommend the one piece oil pan gasket.

Headers:
Long tube Pacesetter headers are said to fit the best, but others have used headman. Also you'll want to use studs to mount the headers... it will make it much more easy to pull them off later. DO NOT forget a good antiseeze on your bolts (get the high heat kind with copper in it).


Cam:
If you have the cash available I would DEFINATLY put a new cam in the motor... You'll already have the engine out and the valve covers off so why the heck not!?!?!? You'll get an easy 20 hp boost between a cam and headers. I'd recommend Comp Cams 35-255-5 or Crane 444232.

Water pumps are a pain so put a new one on while it's out.

Check the timing chain especially if you are in there for a cam job. Beware there is a HUGE difference between a double roller and a TRUE double roller! if you buy a new timing set get a true double roller cloyes and comp cams both make a good one. In fact you might be able to get a cam, lifters, and timing set all from comp cams.

If the truck has been sitting or even if it hasn't 67K isn't many miles for the year meaning it was sitting for a period of time somewhere along the lines... Get a new fuel filter and I would think about doing a manual clean on the injectors (ask me if you want to and need more info).

I think I already asked you this b4 but where are you located evil?

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm a stickler for keeping things organized and grouping parts together so I won't lose anything, but there's always that one little part that gets misplaced somehow. I planned on marking the wires and taking lots of pictures.

I had considered changing the water pump and even the oil pump while I had it out. One thing I didn't really consider was the cam, mostly because I'm more concerned about it being reliable (no oil leaks and a good exhaust system) but if I can budget the cam and timing set in there I'll do that for sure. I will at least check the stock timing setup if nothing else. I might need more info on cleaning the injectors!

I was planning on removing the hood and the radiator/grille and using my tractor's front end loader to pull the engine, since I already have it here. What I didn't consider was a stand of some sort to hold the engine while working on it. I'll check with the local tool rental and see if they have one I can rent.

I have found a couple of posts on here that discuss removing the stock exhaust manifolds, I'm sure that will be the worst part of the entire operation but it should be far easier with the engine out of the truck.

I'm in Indiana, close to Richmond. Thanks for the pointers and when the time comes I'll be back in here asking more questions I'm sure...

 

engine stand $25
750 pound engine stand

once on engine stand tilt the engine on it's side a hose the manifold bolts down with PB blaster... and let each side sit for a day or two soaking and you shouldn't have any problems.

The end loader will probably work for the engine pull. You'll want to take the fan and fan clutch off to... Just for extra room. Go slow and make sure everything is detached!

At 67K the water pump, oil pumps, and timing set should have tons of life left. The only reason I might do one is because you'll avoid maintence in the future. That being said, I have seen plenty of them that will make 150-200K miles on stock pumps/timing.

I have brand new lifters and cam I could part with cheaper than you'll get them at Jeggs or Summit (my money situation is low right now). Comp Cams 35-255-5 Summit ht900 lifters. I bought them for a 351w truck project that I was doing but money ran out, and the engine is still on the stand in the basement. PM me if interested; I'd rather someone get some use out of them rather than collect dust here...

 

Sounds like a lot of work on an unknown rig. I would just fix the exhaust pipe leak and the valve cover. Change all the fluids and drive it awhile. If it runs for a few years for a $1000 you made out fine, if it has more issues then maybe worry about pulling the engine.

 

guess I am the other way... fix it and put all new seals in now and maybe bump a few extra ponies into it and not have to work on it for another 4-5 years... but then again... i like taking stuff apart and fixing it back up! Of course this is all dependant on budget and what not... Which btw... IS there a budget for this??????

 

Didn't your Momma tell you not to do that! You'll go blind!

 

i believe that is "jerkin it" not "yankin it"... Yankin sounds a little more painful! LOL!

 

LOL I haven't gone blind yet but one of my arms is bigger than the other one...just kidding!

Nathan I have some money set back and I'm selling a few things around here to gather more funds for the project. I'll let you know about the cam/lifters but it might be a couple of weeks. Either way I'll get back with you on it.

Big Al, I see what you are saying and my main reason initially for pulling the engine was to put headers on it, then my mind wandered and I thought it would be nice to redo the gaskets while I was at it.

Guys, the exhaust is in several pieces. From the cats back, there's 2 or 3 clamped joins and when I grab the tail pipe I can rotate it about 90 degrees. I can post pics tomorrow but let's just say it has at least one coat hanger under there. I saw it when I bought it, and didn't think much of it since it ran well enough.

Can a guy just buy exhaust parts premade and ditch the cats himself?

 

You should be able to, I don't know about the emmisions laws or inspections where you live though. Here they do a sniffer test in the exhaust, don't need a cat for that.

 

We don't have tests here but I didn't know if a shop would sell you parts if they knew you were deleting the cats yourself (like if you asked for pipe parts that obviously were replacing the cats). I'll ask and see what I find out.

 

Just get a new cat back system from Summit, Jeggs, etc. Then all you'll need to buy will be a piece of pipe to replace the cats. I won't say the name of the shop but there is one around by me that will cut the cat off and replace it with a piece of tube for you... You can make the tube yourself out of a piece of 2.5-3in pipe and a couple flange kits... Just need to have a mig or a friend with a mig! And no worries on the cam/lifters just let me know if/when you want them...