Does anyone know how to bypass the seat safety switch on a Craftsman 42" tractor? There are 3 wires going to the switch, 2 black, 1 grey. I found a couple of websites that say to splice the 2 wires together, but I have 3 and I don't know which ones to splice together. The seat cover is cracked and water got into the switch and now it doesn't work. I thought if I can bypass the switch, I can save a couple of bucks. I am aware of the safety hazard, but my kids are afraid of the tractor so they aren't around when I cut the grass.

 

can you leave the clutch/brake on and set the "parking brake"?

 

Are you sure there are 3 seperate wires??

Maybe the 2 blacks are in the same connector and the grey is seperate..

You can take a paper clip and use it short across each until you find the right combination

 

You should take a look at the sears website. They often seen to have a lot of tech info for their tractors, etc. You usually have to dig around, but it could help.

You might find that the switch is pretty cheap too. I've bypassed my share of safety stuff, but I did get a broken finger due to a tractor without a seat switch (long story).

Having said that, I'd almost bet that all 3 wires get shorted together. They may well have used the switch as a juncction for the 2 black wires.

Good luck and mow safely

hj

 

On my old "Monkey Warts" rider, I just unplugged the connector from the switch, and bypassed it.
(Same for the reverse 'kill' switch!)

IF this works, wrap a couple of layers of electrical tape around the connector, to keep it from touching ground and killing the engine.

 

On mine I just unplugged it and it worked.

 

I'm thinking that the two black wires are the wires that go 'through' the circuit of safety switches, and the gray wire goes to the ignition, so that when the switch closes the circuit, the ignition is grounded, killing the engine.

(Did that make sense????? I've read it two times and I'm not sure that my brain and fingers are working on the same circuit.)

 

On the older ones, I could just unplug them, while the newer ones require bypass. The reason for the seat switch is to keep you from getting off the mower when the deck is engaged. Hit a bump that makes you bounce off the seat a bit, and it kills the motor. If you shift your weight because you are mowing on a slope, and need to keep it from tipping, it kills the motor. The switch is fine for flat lawns, but those of us that don't have flat lawns, it is trouble.

Actually, that makes perfect sense, and if correct, simply unplugging will take care of it. Just try unplugging and see if all behaves nicely, then you will know.

 

I tried a few different combinations and finally got it to work with 1 of the black wires and the grey wire tied together. Only problem now is it stalls out in reverse. A new switch is $18. I ordered a new one. End of story!! Thanks for all your help, guys.

 

glad you got it figured out!










Oh, and.....
BOOM BOOM CRASH!
LETS GO CAPS!!!!!!!!!