More mower questions...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: CA Central Coast
More mower questions...
I have a Wards Signature 2000 mower with a B&S 18 hp. Ran when I picked it up for $100. Now it won't crank unless I jump the solenoid contacts. Might be the starter switch, or I'm told it might be the safety switches.
The gearshift for fwd/reverse and Hi/Lo is stuck in forward Hi...I did get it to go into reverse a couple times, but no more. Possibly the safety switch in there got tripped and stayed tripped?
How can I locate and check these safety switches...or even bypass them? Frankly I'd like to bypass all but the seat switch. The local shops won't tell me due to lawsuit concerns.
Thanks for any input. This is my first riding mower, so explain things like I was a 12 yr old...
The gearshift for fwd/reverse and Hi/Lo is stuck in forward Hi...I did get it to go into reverse a couple times, but no more. Possibly the safety switch in there got tripped and stayed tripped?
How can I locate and check these safety switches...or even bypass them? Frankly I'd like to bypass all but the seat switch. The local shops won't tell me due to lawsuit concerns.
Thanks for any input. This is my first riding mower, so explain things like I was a 12 yr old...
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
It sounds like the one on the brake pedal is bad, it's pretty simple.. Open the hood, and look down by where the pedal goes into the engine bay, you'll see a connector, pull it off and put a wire in it...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,562
Likes: 2
From: Southern MD
Under the hood, on the topside of the frame, you should see a plug that is REAL close to the frame, itself. It has two wires attached to it. (In the plug).
One is the safety switch wire for the clutch pedal, the other, the safety switch wire for the blade disengagement.
The mower should start if you remove this plug. (But, for safety's sake just do it as a test.)
As for the shifter being stuck in forward 'hi', push the mower backwards about 10 feet. According to my manual (I have the 16 hp model) this should disengage the locked up shifter (and might even allow you to start the mower.)
Lastly, someone (I forget who) posted some information on this forum about where to find the manual(s) for these mower. (Do a quick serach.)
Good luck with it.
Keith
One is the safety switch wire for the clutch pedal, the other, the safety switch wire for the blade disengagement.
The mower should start if you remove this plug. (But, for safety's sake just do it as a test.)
As for the shifter being stuck in forward 'hi', push the mower backwards about 10 feet. According to my manual (I have the 16 hp model) this should disengage the locked up shifter (and might even allow you to start the mower.)
Lastly, someone (I forget who) posted some information on this forum about where to find the manual(s) for these mower. (Do a quick serach.)
Good luck with it.
Keith
Last edited by 00BlueOvalRanger; Jul 19, 2005 at 09:36 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,447
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From: Georgia
I have had a riding mower that would occasionally get a bad solynoid (spelling?) when it would go out i would have to cross it. I wound up getting tired of replacing them and used a ford solynoid(had to drill mounting holes and enlarge holes on cables). Never had to replace one again. Like you said you could have a bad safety switch. Hook a meter to them and activate them to see if you get continuity one position or the other. Or you can use ovals method for checking them.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
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From: CA Central Coast
Thanks for the tips, I'll get to it in a day or so.
Today I pulled the ignition/starter switch, and had my wife hold it and turn the key to start and put the ohmmeter on it, one lead on negative, and touched all the others in turn with positive. Nothing, nada. (and yes, the ohmmeter battery is fresh and the meter works when I touch the leads). With the key to switch "off" the only pole that lit up was the one to the voltmeter (on dash).
Correct me if I'm wrong, but is this a good indication of a fried switch?
Erik
Today I pulled the ignition/starter switch, and had my wife hold it and turn the key to start and put the ohmmeter on it, one lead on negative, and touched all the others in turn with positive. Nothing, nada. (and yes, the ohmmeter battery is fresh and the meter works when I touch the leads). With the key to switch "off" the only pole that lit up was the one to the voltmeter (on dash).
Correct me if I'm wrong, but is this a good indication of a fried switch?
Erik
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,562
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From: Southern MD
Erik:
I'm not sure about the switch, but, if you'll e-mail me (or PM with an e-mail address), I'll send back to you, a .pdf (or a jpg) of the wiring schematic for that mower.
Keith
I'm not sure about the switch, but, if you'll e-mail me (or PM with an e-mail address), I'll send back to you, a .pdf (or a jpg) of the wiring schematic for that mower.
Keith
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: CA Central Coast
Thanks Keith, I'll do that. I did have a copy of the original owners manual, but can't find it...my wife may have inadvertantly thrown out one of my piles...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,562
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From: Southern MD
Erik:
The e-mail address was blocked. I have no idea of how to get this schematic to you, now.
Suggestions!?!?!?!?!?!???????
EDIT: Duh!!!!! I created a gallery and put a .jpg of the schematic in there, for you.
To get the file, copy it to your pc and create a new document in your word processing program (i.e. Word, etc.) then insert the .jpg and enlarge so that you can print it out. I hope this helps.
Ain't technology great?
The e-mail address was blocked. I have no idea of how to get this schematic to you, now.
Suggestions!?!?!?!?!?!???????
EDIT: Duh!!!!! I created a gallery and put a .jpg of the schematic in there, for you.
To get the file, copy it to your pc and create a new document in your word processing program (i.e. Word, etc.) then insert the .jpg and enlarge so that you can print it out. I hope this helps.
Ain't technology great?
Last edited by 00BlueOvalRanger; Jul 21, 2005 at 05:32 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Most of those safety switches run in series. I had to track all the way to the blade engage solenoid on my neighbors craftsman to find the same problem you had. We bypassed it and left all the others in place.
Simplest is to highlite the wires from the starter solenoid all the way back to the keyswitch first - then go one by one down the line. You should be able to turn the key and read voltage at each point if you have some kind of weight on the seat and the brake all the way down. Bungee cords are helpful there...
Simplest is to highlite the wires from the starter solenoid all the way back to the keyswitch first - then go one by one down the line. You should be able to turn the key and read voltage at each point if you have some kind of weight on the seat and the brake all the way down. Bungee cords are helpful there...
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