My brother has a 1979 Ford F-150 that the front right hand turn signal socket is missing one of the prongs that touches the back of the light bulb. I have access to a parts truck that has a good socket, but I want advise on how to change it.

On several auto parts store websites, the socket does not appear to come with wires, just the socket. Is this the case? If so how do I get the wires out of my socket or do I just have to splice the wires? I have seen several post about replacing the sockets, but none with specific instructions.

 

The sockets should come with wires, at least my new ones did.

 

Or just splice the wires. If done properly there is no problem with it. Solder them and use some good quality shrink tube and it will be as permanent as the wire itself.

 

That's correct; all replacement sockets come with wires. Replace the socket by soldering and shrink-wrapping the wires from the socket to the truck's harness; do not use butt splices for this application.

 

i had to change mine, just splice the wires, thats what i did.

 

will do just would like for it to looks an good as i can get it.

 

D1FZ-13234-A .. Socket w/6" long pigtailed wires.

Fits Parklamp & Taillamp: 1975/79 F100/350 (Styleside taillight, not Flareside) / 1978/79 Bronco / 1975/91 Econoline.

The same taillamps were also used in these vehicles, and the socket was also used in myriad 1971/80 Passenger Cars.

 

I just replaced mine,new socket with pigtails. Some say "don't just crimp" i allways crimp and never have any problems. Of course you have to have a good crimping tool and know how to do it ,plus i do use shrink wrap sometimes ,but not very often. I'v only been doing it about 40 years , so i might foul up and have one come apart someday.

 

The biggest issue with crimped on butt splices isn't the fact that they won't hold and just come uncrimped and fall apart, it's the fact that they are an excellent place to start corroding and then you loose your connection. Trust me, I know. I work in a truck repair shop and trying to keep lights working on these 18 wheelers is an ongoing battle. With the calcium chloride they are using on the roads these days in the winter to melt the ice and snow, any bare metal will begin to corrode as soon as it is in contact with this crap. They do make crimp on connectors anymore that have a built in shrink sleeve on them and they do seem to work better than the old ones. However, whenever possible I repair wires by soldering and shrink tube. At least that way you have a permanent mechanical connection on the wire itself. Because even with the shrink sleeve style crimp on connectors if you overcrimp them in the slightest amount, you will damage the plastic insulation on them allowing the water/calcium chloride to begin wicking into your splice. Once that happens, it starts eating at the copper and soon its bye bye connection.....................The calcium chloride is so corrosive that we had a truck come in the other night that it actually ate clear thru the differential housing, which showed up as an oil leak. Granted this truck has about a million miles on it (literally) and rarely gets the underside washed off but c'mon the housing is made of at LEAST 1/4" thick steel, probably closer to 3/8" thick; that at one point in its life was painted for protection. So what kind of chance does a measley 14 or 16 guage bare copper wire have??????? Virtually NONE............

 

if u have a donor trk why not just change the whole harness if u want it to look original theres a main harness plug on the inner fenderwell but if ur not worried about looking stock just splice soldier n heat shrink it but when i have whole harnesses i just change them out to keep it looking original the choice is urs man

 

For anything exterior unless you can't reach it, this is the best method and not hard to do. Just don't forget to put the shrink wrap on before you solder the connection like I've done a few times

 

we got it solder on and working. thanks