Okay I replaced my starter with a high torque unit from DB electrical. While I was doing this I bought two new batteries that match. I notice my cables are pretty bad and really need to be replaces. Where is the best price on these cables... I am looking for plug and play, no modifications....

 

Partsguyed.com would be the best bet. The Motorcraft website would have their part numbers. Price wise I'm not sure. Might be a get what you pay for thing. I've never used anything aftermarket (permanently) in regards to battery cables.

 

Dont buy Napa's positive battery cable cause it way to long. In terms of taking it off its a big enough PITA with so many extra connections and taped ends, but napas cable is like 3 or 4 inches to long on each connection and makes it a bigger PITA. I know cause im doing that right now and its a huge PITA cable wise lol.

 

Make your own.
Bought ones are soooo expensive.

 

I didn't make this list, and I dont remember who did.
Welding cable is the way to go though. Choose your ends based on what you want to do.
The welding cable will get the most power to that starter for you. =)

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Here is a list of my supplies-
9’ of 2/0ga red welding cable
7’ of 2ga black welding cable
4 - 2/0ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole
4 - 2ga copper eyelet, 3/8” hole (battery end of ground cable and ground to frame)
2 - 2ga copper eyelet, ½” hole (motor end of ground cable)
2 - Mill spec + battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315P)
2 - Mill spec – battery terminals (Borg warner p/n BH315N)
4 - 2/0ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT474)
4 - 2ga solder pellets (Borg warner p/n CT471)
2’ - 3/4” double wall adhesive lined heat shrink

Start by cutting all your cables to length, on my truck this is what was required
Pass battery + to drivers battery 50” -- 2/0ga
Drivers battery + to starter 45” – 2/0ga
Both batteries – to engine ground 25’ – 2ga (ea.)
Engine ground to frame 18” – 2ga
Both battery grounds to body 6” – 10ga (ea)

1. Strip a ½” off the end of the cable
2. Cut a 2” piece of heat shrink and slide over end of cable about a 1’ from the end
3. Place the copper eyelet in a bench vice with the cable end pointed up
4. Drop in solder pellet
5. Use a propane torch to heat the eyelet until the solder melts
6. In one smooth motion push the cable down into the eyelet
7. Slide the heat shrink over the eyelet covering the connection
8. Use the propane torch or a suitable heat gun to shrink the heat shrink
Repeat steps 1-8 for all cable ends

9. Clean the starter connection point and both ground points on the block with emery cloth
10. Remove the – side battery cables
11. Remove the + side battery cables
12. Install Mill spec terminals
13. Install your new + cable from the starter to pass battery
14. Install you new + cable from driver’s battery to pass battery
15. Install you new – cables from both batteries to both sides of block
16. Install your new – cable from the pass side engine ground to the frame
17. Install your new – cables from batteries to body ground

 

Very nice write up!

What should the cost for parts come out to?

Thanks!

 

call Cris best prices on cables I have found and awesome workmanship and BIG cables
Contact - RowdyRacks

 

I'm not sure.
I really really really need to do it myself.

I should do that next week.

gotta find a shop to buy the wire.

 

I bought the ones from Napa before reading the post! I do not want 3-4 weeks for the custom ones. If Napa ones are too long, I will make them right with some marines connectors is my thought!

 

You can get the welding wire at TSC. We have done it on all our work trucks