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David, how much mulah do you want to keep throwing at your truck (treating the symptom instead of finding a cure) before you are broke and frustrated? It’s up to you of course, but I would suggest that, If it isn’t broke yet – don’t fix it till you’ve found the real problem! Fix what is broke first and then you can upgrade what you want and feel good about it. Sometimes we all need to be reminded to perform the easy basics and not let our minds over think everything. (Don't make it harder than it has to be) Everything you are trying to achieve in your posts is about the boost, the Injector PW, and tunes. (and of course the way you drive, LOL) Couple of the guys have already suggested this - Have you checked for boost leaks? Have you had your tunes tweaked to fit You & Your Truck? Why not? All the little leaks can add up to a significant decrease in boost. Of course, each case can vary but each leak does allow your EGT to rise. If you haven’t done a boost-leak test yet – DO IT. Between that and fine tuning your tunes you will know if there is something else that is mechanical or if it is the tunes. Barney and I saw a big difference on our truck after doing a boost-leak test and sealing the leaks, then we did the dyno with Bill fine tuning the tunes. The difference is AMAZING! We are getting 2mpg better too! You know, if you are expecting the mechanical parts to do something that the program/tunes is not telling them to do – you won’t get any different results with new parts. You need to make sure the right message is being sent. Especially the injectors. - IMHO, Cheryl
Ok so check for boost leaks! Got it. I pulled my chip so for now I'm guessing the tunning should be good. Trust me if I had the cure it would be fixed. Idk! I'll get the brakes back together and see how it does then I'll check for boost leaks. I'll keep you all posted.
I myself have been chasing a mpg issue like this. I have a right side pull when I brake. I was told to relube the slide pins. Also the right rim will have more brake dust on it than the driver side. How do I check for sticking brakes? Maybe bullas and my issue could be similar
[I too will be looking at this as well for chasing my possible MPG issue? I know there was something to look at with respect to the front brakes but totally forgot about it. Thanks for bring this back up.
Dave, I'd go for IDM now... I really think it's got to be electrical, especially when you keep saying it's like someone gave you a shot of nitrous every now and again. You've had your pedal in both trucks and it's fine. As for the percentage to throttle amount you're getting, that's tuning. Swap out the IDM from that other truck and then see what you've got. And boost leaks might be something to look at, but I highly doubt you could make that kind of boost with leaks... that's just my $.02 though.
As for times, mine are as follows:
0-60 @ 11-seconds
0-80 @ 21-seconds
This is with 3.73's, 35's, and 305K on the clock... I'm guessing my truck weighs somewhere around 7500-8000lbs.
I agree with Dan & Cheryl. Test for boost leaks and figure out what rpm's you start to build good boost and when it maxes out. Just because you have bellowed up pipes, don't assume there are no issues there. Check for leaks around the up pipes, manifolds, or the collector on the back of the turbo. A pressure check won't find leaks on the exhaust side, but a cracked or misaligned part can cause problems. Look for soot stains.
Originally Posted by Franko72
..., but I have driven Davids truck, and it is a slug.
Could you tell anything from the drive? Any chance it's transmission related?
Ok I did the boost leak check and found none. However that was after using barney's advice on wrapping a piece or wire around the groove in one of my ic pipes that kept sliding off. I only pressures it up to 18.5 psi. That was all I could get out of the regulator I had set up. No boost leaks. I was hoping to find one. also looked over the exaust side Chris, nothing there either. But what was weird was after fooling around with it when I left it actually felt stronger, then after a few stops it went back to it's old self. What was strange was I could even hear a difference in the injectors. They sounded more crisp at first then like I said blah it fell on it's face. I wish I'd of had my ae hooked up at the time. Darnit!
Ok I did the boost leak check and found none. However that was after using barney's advice on wrapping a piece or wire around the groove in one of my ic pipes that kept sliding off. I only pressures it up to 18.5 psi. That was all I could get out of the regulator I had set up. No boost leaks. I was hoping to find one. also looked over the exaust side Chris, nothing there either. But what was weird was after fooling around with it when I left it actually felt stronger, then after a few stops it went back to it's old self. What was strange was I could even hear a difference in the injectors. They sounded more crisp at first then like I said blah it fell on it's face. I wish I'd of had my ae hooked up at the time. Darnit!
Have you tried the other IDM yet? What about the other bank of injectors... tried swaping them out? I would do that first before you rule out sticks.
Ok I did the boost leak check and found none. However that was after using barney's advice on wrapping a piece or wire around the groove in one of my ic pipes that kept sliding off. I only pressures it up to 18.5 psi. That was all I could get out of the regulator I had set up. No boost leaks. I was hoping to find one. also looked over the exaust side Chris, nothing there either. But what was weird was after fooling around with it when I left it actually felt stronger, then after a few stops it went back to it's old self. What was strange was I could even hear a difference in the injectors. They sounded more crisp at first then like I said blah it fell on it's face. I wish I'd of had my ae hooked up at the time. Darnit!
15 to 20 psi is all it takes. Was this with a cold or warm engine? Warm is prefered. and you used soap solution too? don't depend on just "listening" sometimes the bubbles is a better indication to pinpoint the small leaks. If you think there was a bit of a change seems like it would be worth boost leak testing again, hooking up the AE, and getting a read on a test drive. Anyone agree?
after reading all of this and everybody saying to check for boost i decided to check mine(post ccv) i found a boot leaking at the ic. i fixed it and could hear air but saw no bubbles. i started feeling around and my intake tube was leaking at the turbo. it was tite but blowing so much pressure that it didnt make bubbles. i had to change the clamp and noticed the bottom side of the clamp broke and cut the intake tube. but i tested again and no leaks. i could tell a difference.. may not be the case for you though... just thought id throw it out there though
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