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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
IZZY your saying do do the WW reguardless before I put the turbo on, right?
Injectors are at the bottom of my to do list right now that will come a long ways down the road
FWIW, mine didn't. Empty or towing 10K
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #32  
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Alright thanks for all the info guys. I will put a WW on the turbo before installing it. When I get the hybrids, if I have surge pull the WW off and run the ATS housing with the factory wheel, until then its pointless to get the housing, just making sure Ive got this all right, correct me if Im wrong. On the next warm day Ill look to see if I have PMRs or forged, thanks
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
Alright thanks for all the info guys. I will put a WW on the turbo before installing it. When I get the hybrids, if I have surge pull the WW off and run the ATS housing with the factory wheel, until then its pointless to get the housing, just making sure Ive got this all right, correct me if Im wrong. On the next warm day Ill look to see if I have PMRs or forged, thanks
Why not do as I did. Hold off. Put the Van turbo on and see if you get surge. If not, you don't even have to have the WW. If it does, you can still put on the WW. Better yet put on the ATS housing and be done with it. Easier and definitely cures surge.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #34  
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What am I looking for when it comes to checking the difference in PMRS and forged? Does anyone have a picture of the plug I need to check it threw?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
What am I looking for when it comes to checking the difference in PMRS and forged? Does anyone have a picture of the plug I need to check it threw?
You might have to crank the engine a few times but look at the rods and see if they are studded or bolted.

Read the article. It says :

In the photo shown, notice that the powdered-metal connecting rod's cap is secured using bolts (left), whereas the forged rod's cap is fastened with studs (this can be visible through the inspection hole in the crankcase mentioned above).
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Why not do as I did. Hold off. Put the Van turbo on and see if you get surge. If not, you don't even have to have the WW. If it does, you can still put on the WW. Better yet put on the ATS housing and be done with it. Easier and definitely cures surge.
That sounds like the best plan to me. Now Ive got to buy this house, get new up-pipes, and the adapter, slap it on and call it good for now
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by aklim
You might have to crank the engine a few times but look at the rods and see if they are studded or bolted.

Read the article. It says :
I need to stop speed reading, lol thanks
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #38  
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Good luck -- mine surged easily empty with my hot tunes (both van turbo and stocker). The thing is that it's super easy to put the WW on while the turbo is out. It's a bit of a PITA on the truck, but doable.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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I know this is an older post but I have more questions before I go ahead and dip into this project. How do I pull the old flange off of the van turbo? Do I have to heat it up? I did a half a** job trying to get it off but with it being cast I had a fear of brakng the bolts off in the turbo. Do I have this right or should I just giver h*ll and wrench them off? Do I need a gasket when I put them back together? And what are the torque specs if any? Thanks again
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #40  
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Get a good quality 12pt socket either 8mm or 5/16 and put it on the bolt, whack it several good times with a hammer, it will help loosen up the bolts. They will be tight, but being on the exhaust those bolts will be pretty dang hard to break off, just make sure you don't get off angle when you pull and strip the heads off or anything.

If you had a 1/4 or 3/8 impact it would work great if you turned it down low and let it wrap on the bolt a little to help break it loose.

Last time I had to take one off, it took one person to hold the turbo and one on the ratchet, and both of us about pulling something straining, and then about smashed our hands when it finally let loose, trust me they will be tight.

If the flange doesn't come right off, give it a few good whacks with the hammer and it will come right off.

You wont need any gasket or anything, there isn't one there.

I'll dig in my pdf and see if there is a torque spec, however I have always just put them pretty tight with a ratchet.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #41  
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Found it, spec is 62 inch pounds for those bolts.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #42  
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Thats what I was looking for thanks once again Cory I appreciate the help from you and everyone else on FTE
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #43  
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No problem man, good luck with it and be sure to post up some pics!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Ziggy.
No problem man, good luck with it and be sure to post up some pics!
It will be a little while before I do put it all together, I will take step by step pictures, I just wish it wasnt such a PITA to post them here
 
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #45  
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I have always just used photobucket, hold the ctrl button down and download alot of pictures at once while i'm doing something else then just copy the img code and paste in my posts.
 
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