EBPV Delete... Need Know How
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
The easiest way is to look at the compressor housing. 4 bolts, e99. 5 bolts, late 99+...
Your 17* HPOP is okay as-is to make 400. I'm making 450, and about to step up to close to 500 on my stocker + hybrids. Did I mention this is on PMRs??
EDIT: Van Turbo (preferably with ATS), + 200cc hybrids will get you over 400 easily, and safely on good tuning. Stock 17* HPOP doesn't need replaced unless it falls on its face with the hybrids. I'm holding 2800-3000 with my 238cc stix.
Your 17* HPOP is okay as-is to make 400. I'm making 450, and about to step up to close to 500 on my stocker + hybrids. Did I mention this is on PMRs??
EDIT: Van Turbo (preferably with ATS), + 200cc hybrids will get you over 400 easily, and safely on good tuning. Stock 17* HPOP doesn't need replaced unless it falls on its face with the hybrids. I'm holding 2800-3000 with my 238cc stix.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Ive got 5 bolts so Im good, sheeewwwwwww, I thought the wife might have to kill me lol.
Awesome info. thanks a lot. What do the hybrids run$?
Im closer than I thought to making the power I want to if I dont have to touch the HPOP.
Let me know how those PMRs hold up to 500 Horse, then Ill think about joining the 500+hp group
Awesome info. thanks a lot. What do the hybrids run$?
Im closer than I thought to making the power I want to if I dont have to touch the HPOP.
Let me know how those PMRs hold up to 500 Horse, then Ill think about joining the 500+hp group
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Sorry Im a victim of my speed reading again, I sttn 1.15 A/R in your sig. and figured it was a van turbo you installed. I was aking if the flanges are interchangable instead of buying one from Beans. Thanks for the tips,itll be a little while untill I put it on my wife and I are in the process of buying our first house(its awesome) so the turbo is going on the back burnner for now, untill i can buy the flange WW and bellowed up pipes
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Whoops I ment this... Riffraff Diesel: ATS Ported Compressor Housing
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Does that do much if you do NOT have surge?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Injectors are at the bottom of my to do list right now that will come a long ways down the road
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
You need to pull the plug on the side of the block (next to the oil filter) and check. There are 2001s with both rods, so it's worth looking. My opinion is that it really doesn't matter. Several guys with forged blocks have blown with less power than me, and lots of guys have gotten to 500 on PMRs. If it's gong to go, it's going to go regardless. Mine happens to be holding together... *knocking on wood
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I would say run the WW. Then when you get injectors, if you do surge, you can go back to the stock wheel with ATS. I wouldn't run both WW and ATS -- it's a pretty noisy combo, and truly not necessary. I've proven that with mine. I get over 35psi with the stock wheel/ATS and no surge.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
With stock injectors, it didn't surge. With Stage II AC injectors it didn't surge either. Since the ported housing is easy to put on, I would hold off till I determined that it does surge.