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I thought I had a lift pump failure, so changed it out and still having starting issues. I am now thinking I have a glow plug problem. The WTS stays on for about 8-10 seconds, but I am not hearing any clicking noises from inside the cab. What does this indicate? I have not tested glow plugs yet, just wanting some advice before I get started. I have an 87 and read that they changed the glow plug system mid year. I do I know what I have and where should I focus my attention on first. Thanks for the help.
What do the connectors on the glow plugs look like? If they are spades you have the early style controler. The solid state controler uses bullit conectors on the glows. If it uses the early controler,you really can't tell by the wait to start light if any plugs are bad. Time to drag out the test light and give the plugs a check.
Another question, my batteries are 5 years old and have been cranking on them pretty hard to get it started. Before lift pump, it would start, surge and then die. Right before I changed the lift pump, I could not get it started without plugging it in. After lift pump, still couldn't start it in the morning without plugging it in. Plugged it in for about a half hour and started after a couple of cycles. What do you think?
I just determined I have the new controller, it is mounted on the passenger side on top of the valve cover. I will start testing glow plugs. Never messed with them, anything I have to be especially careful with? Just pull the wire and put the test light to them?
The start then die tells me your return lines are allowing the fuel to bleed down and air get into the system, the surge comes from the pump running out of fuel. They are the little lines connecting each injector, if they are still gray they are way overdue to be changed. Do that then bleed the system. As for the glow lugs clamp the test light to the battery and pull the wire off the top if it lights up its good. Being the controller stays on for 8-10sec they are probably ok. I'm thinking you aren't getting fuel. So bleed the filter and then crack the injector lines until they are all wet tighten them up then give it a shot.
Thanks for the response. Once I swapped out the lift pump, once I get it started it runs fines. The stalling and dying was before I changed the lift pump. Now it is still difficult to get it started. I think I got the fuel problem fixed and there appears to be no leaks in return lines. I put new injectors and a return line kit in it a couple of months ago. I still have original pump and 185,000 miles. Could it be an IP issue?
If it does the fault must be with the glow plugs. Check with the test light just to verify. Maybe there is a loose wire or a fault with the controller. If you haven't already check the glowplug sticky at the top of the page
Back to this issue, just checked all the glow plugs and they all lit up. So am I to assume it is the controller? How do I check that to see if it is working properly?
Just in case this helps someone in the future, my problem ended up being the relay (solenoid) on top of the controller. Napa tried to sell me the entire controller, their computer does not show a relay for an 87 or newer, so I told them to pull up a relay for an 86. Cost $30 and worked perfect. Thanks again for all the help.
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